Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Currently going through my build and I'm going to be making a Oil Tank soon. Plan Is to be about 500mm Tall and about 220mm in Diameter. so it would be a 10L tank and that means that i will be able to run approx 7L in the tank. My main question is Tank Location, Does the tank have to be above the pump pressure side inlet so that it will gravity feed or will it be okay to run it level? My plan is to run in behing the 'B' Pillar of the roll cage. After doing some corner weighting with me in the car i need to add some more weight to the back LHS. But i dont want to be having to run a oil hose upto the tank if it has to be half way up the rollcage.

Cheers for your help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457300-dry-sump-oiling-systems/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Yes but from fluid dynamics, the longer the pipe the more the pressure drop.

It isn't pressurised. It's just a header tank for the pump that is in the engine bay.

As stated above. Place in the boot, on the left. Purpose of this is for the best weight balance when corner weighting.

post-76224-0-81545600-1436651160_thumb.jpg

Yeah the fluid between the tank and the pump is under no pressure at all its only a gravity feed to the pump.

Yeah that was the idea just wasnt sure we have corner weighted it an we have moved the battery placement further back and the firebomb back so adding another 15kg to the back pass side will be awesome for corner weight. My main concern was having oil get to the pump but solong as the pump is below the oil level in the tank and no part of the oil line goes above oil level in the tank gravity should feed the pump no problem

No, not my car mate, just an image I've pull off the net.

All the supercars run that style setup.

Fit a electric oil warmer in the tank too, just plug it in 1hr before you want to start, and bingo, warm oil ;)

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Bringing this back from the dead abit but you guys had a fairbut of knowledge on the dry sumps. Obviously pump at the front tank at the back. How would i go having an oil filter on the scavenge line in the boot then a cooler then into the tank? or is it best to have the cooler and filter closer to the motor?

No, the filter should be on the pressure side, before your expensive engine.

So you'd plumb in a filter like this:

Pressure out of oil pump--> remote mount oil filter--> oil cooler--> pressure into engine.

I have a filter between engine and dry sump pump and another filter between the pump and the tank and thats all on the scavenge side then a filter on the pressure side of the pump between pump and engine so 3 filters all up

Question is whether the cooler should be 1. on the scavenge side; and 2. in the boot.

Presumably the tank and lines are going to punch out quite a bit of heat. Depending on length of events being run, oil temps may not need to be regulated with a cooler. Any heat exchanger will need to be getting airflow - maybe the oil tank could benefit from a bit of air passing around it to evacuate heat also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...