Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so my r32 is been getting tuned for the last 3 weeks now got a cool to day same it only made 130kw something do add up here.

It got haltech Ecu 440cc injectors gt25/30 full 3- 3 1/2 exhaust fmic spitfire coil pack big fuel pump fuel reg.

something don't add up that was 15psi.

Any one else had a shit tune done

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457362-r32-gtst-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

My r32 has been getting tuned for the last 3 weeks. I got a call today saying it only made 130kw. Something doesn't add up here.

It has got a haltech Ecu, 440cc injectors, gt25/30, full 3- 3 1/2 exhaust, flick, spitfire coil packs, big fuel pump fuel reg. Etc.

Something thing doesn't add up. That was 15psi.

Has anyone else had a shit tune done?

  • Like 1

^^ lol thanks for the english translation Ben :)

I'm sure in the history of skylines people have had a shit tune done before. But the motor may have other issues. What was the motor taking in terms of ignition timing at peak torque? post the dyno sheet as well.

What did the tuner say? Is he experienced with Haltechs? Yes, 130rwkw is even less than a stock skyline makes. Something's wrong, if the tuner couldn't point a finger at something find another tuner. He should have given you feedback on why he thinks it's so low.

  • Like 1

That's funny because my r32 is been getting tuned for the last 3 weeks now got a cool to day same it only made 130kw something do add up here.

It got haltech Ecu 440cc injectors gt25/30 full 3- 3 1/2 exhaust fmic spitfire coil pack big fuel pump fuel reg.

something don't add up that was 15psi.

Any one else had a shit tune done

so I rang him yesterday and he told me that it is restricted some were and it's not cooling right. And then tell me he had tuned the boost up to 24 psi to see what it had I was lucky the head gasket didn't pop. So now all I now high boost is 18 psi at 180 something kw which is still pretty shit numbers for 18 psi I think. He then sends me a pic of the fuel leaking out of were then sender goes in he didn't want to fix it. For $20 o ring and 5mis and a pic of the exhaust manifold glow hot

I don't think he know what he is doing on rb and haltech

Edited by Fat533

And then tell me he had tuned the boost up to 24 psi to see what it had

15psi has a restriction AND not cooling right so lets try almost double the boost... pointless. diminishing returns. risking motor damage. what a genius.

find a haltech/RB expert.

trolling

not necessary :down:

He said the exhaust manifold was restricting it and that its get red hot and that's all he told me bout cooling.

There is no cat just straight throw to muff that's it. I don't see how to would change all I did was put new motor in that's it. was running fine when I took it there just a bit on the lean side

it's not the exhaust manifold. RB20 and RB25 exhaust manifolds are identical, and on RB25s they flow 300rwkw without any problems. So it's absolutely impossible that it's causing a problem at 130rwkw!

If it's glowing red hot then it points to the timing being too retarded. retarded timing explains both the low power and the hot exhaust manifold.

question is why is it retarded, either it is knock limited or there is a restriction somewhere although it sounds like it's not the exhaust. if it was running lean then richening it up should have been the first thing he did.

silly question but you are running 98RON fuel right?

I had a mate with a 180sx that suddenly lost power. You could also rev it and have flames come out the exhaust just by pumping the throttle at about 2500rpm. It turned out that the exhaust cam was snapped (but still holding together, just twisted a bit) and so the ignition timing was out relative to the cam.

I'd check the cam timing, as well as making sure the cam sensor is working.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...