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On 9/2/2016 at 11:26 PM, Gillyr33gtst said:

38mm instead of 33mm from the guide for the tensioner hole no need to use two tensioner and timing marks line up spot on

Can you elaborate on this? I don't understand how the tensioner hole position has any influence on the timing marks. The drive side of the timing belt is phasing the belt teeth based on the length of the path the belt follows. I reckon using an idler pulley doesn't get the crank to cam sync quite right. The other thing is that the timing marks on the head backing plate are probably only as accurate as they needed to be assuming you were putting a timing belt back on an RB25 block (ie you aren't wrong by a hole tooth). I am probably thinking about it too much and if I truly want to get it right I would need to dial the crank to the cams properly. Thanks for the help!

You are able to get the right tension on the belt from the beginning and the tension is on the correct side and not relying on the second tensioner to get it right I found when using the two tensioners I'd be playing around with both of them to get marks lining up now the extra 5mm and one tensioner and Idler I'd set tension and marks are perfect hope I explained my self clear enough I'll dig up some pics and post of this

Cheers for that. I've ended up going with the two tensioners. 

A little update, I got it running tonight. I nearly fell off my seat it was so loud running straight off the headers right next to me. 

I set up an oil pressure gauge in my little switch box and it's making plenty. I only ran it for a few seconds since there's no water in it yet. 

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  • Like 2

I slapped a radiator and short exhaust on it this week. Sounds absolutely awesome. Very crisp and revvy. All I need now is a car to whack it in. 

 

Does anybody have any good ideas about converting it to a Programmable ecu? I'm am idiot and didn't look into this and now have the issue of doing one if these things.

1. Buy a complete turbo loom and ecu and injectors then going nisstune.

2. As above but plugging in a pfc

3. Start from scratch with a aftermarket loom and ecu. I would be thinking megasquirt if going down this path. 

 

Any advice would be welcome.

Dave

T

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Edited by dave1200

Thanks but Not sure this helps me. The problem is that the Neo NA ecu and loom are different to the turbo therefore any of the plug and play ecus won't work because nobody supports the NA motor. If I have to wire one from scratch it will be a megasquirt but I'm mostly looking at the pros and cons of replacing loom with a turbo then getting a plug and play ecu/piggyback nistune style. I think I can get a megasquirt running the complete NA motor then would just need to change injectors and go to map sensor to run a big turbo but this would have much more head scratching than the other option.

I'm a DIY kind of guy. You get incredible functionality for a good price. For less than $1000 I'll get an ECU that's entirely configurable with all the I/O of a high end ECU. As I said earlier they generate more head scratching but I've got a few mates who have had good success with megasquirt as well as know a tuner who is familiar with them.

 

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

get a Nistune, less money plenty of functions.

I have a tuner license too and can get you the boards cheaper. Since you're a DIY kind of guy it can be fun soldering.

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