Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am doing a round of modifications to my r34 gtt rb25 neo that is basically copying a setup that should make ~330 RWKW on 98

Is there much to be had at this level from getting the head ported?

The engine has 100,000 km on it so could be due for a freshen up top, I was planning on doing stem seals since I am replacing cams and springs anyway but was going to leave the head on, but this would be a good time to pull the head off and get it ported if the gains made it worthwhile and install some arp head studs.

I read on the 'Lewis engines' website and it seems like a worthwhile upgrade, is there any machining shops that would come recommended by SAU members?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457791-rb-25-head-porting/
Share on other sites

What he said.

At 330rwkW there is absolutely no need to port the head. It is very possible to get to that sort of power just by using boost. If you do port the head, you will need a turbo that can make the target air flow level at lower boost. This might ultimately mean the difference between using a GT3076 or a GTX3076 (just to pull an arbitrary turbo size out of the air. The GTX are optimised to make power at higher pressure ratios.

If you do port it, and it is done well (sensibly, not just hogging shit out of it) then gas flow will increase even before the turbo is up on boost, so you should improve response.

But.....How else would you spend $2k?

Anyone can hack up a port.

Seen it too many times to mention. :/

The more boost you run the less runner size you want imo, so a little bowl work is fine, and I agree with port matching, but I would like to actually add material to the port to increase the gas speed before the valve.

Just think how long the valve is open for at 8000 revs, and what speed the air needs to be going to fill the cylinder in that time...

Apparently stored correctly in a 44 drum it would be good for 3 months max, not sure I would go through it that fast especially considering the car only comes out to leave town and It wouldn't make it to the next servo selling e85

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...