Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just needed some feedback. Currently got a Takashi 600x300x68, was thinking of going 100mm core to not restrict flow but it doesn't seem to clear. Thinking a 78mm core at the moment, nothing major just like a JustJap cooler. Was just wondering if the 10mm would make a difference and if it's worth it ? Have a R33 rb25det

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458250-intercooler/
Share on other sites

Stao's results are interesting, for some reason the R34 GTT seems very sensitive to any sort of restriction. I know with the standard SMIC, mine was horrible. It doesn't quite make sense why the motor is so sensitive but it seems to be an R34 thing.

Plenty of people seem to have made around 300kW on 68/78mm coolers on the R33.. check dyno results and hypergear threads. Whether their results would have another 20kW with a bigger cooler, who knows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458250-intercooler/#findComment-7568895
Share on other sites

This is the issue I have when people do back to back tests, they only ever relate to their setup, not any other car, and unless you are measuring temp pre and post cooler you have no idea how much the temps are actually dropping in these situations. I run a cut down 220 x 600 shitty old Jap cooler I ran through the band saw, no dramas here. Would I get a better result with a 100mm core, most likely, but with added lag, plus there is no room to fit it on my car.

If these chinese/Jap coolers actually restricted flow we would know about it, as no-one would get decent results with them. More likely the turbo is out of efficiency and heating the air too much, as that is what I would expect from taking a compressor to it's limits.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458250-intercooler/#findComment-7568936
Share on other sites

Hey guys, just needed some feedback. Currently got a Takashi 600x300x68, was thinking of going 100mm core to not restrict flow but it doesn't seem to clear. Thinking a 78mm core at the moment, nothing major just like a JustJap cooler. Was just wondering if the 10mm would make a difference and if it's worth it ? Have a R33 rb25det

Thanks in advance

I have the 78mm cooler from just jap, and have return flow piping as well although that is a custom job, made 320rwkw at 22psi on my R34. My tuner said that was getting close to the limit for the cooler, temps were starting to climb but nothing outrageous.

Guess it depends what you wanna use it for. 350kw in a street car it would be fine, but if you're planning a lot of track days on 98 maybe it's worth it to go 100mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458250-intercooler/#findComment-7569386
Share on other sites

Do the R34 Neo specific issues disappear if aftermarket or R33 inlet manifolds are used ? I keep wondering if the I think smaller Neo inlet plenum section is working against performance and needing higher boost pressures (and compressor outlet temps) to push beyond 300+ .

It would be interesting to hear from someone that say put a Neo 25T engine in an R33 with the 33 inlet manifold system .

Long shot but 33 inlets could be a cheap upgrade on Neo's pushing beyond 300RWKW .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458250-intercooler/#findComment-7569678
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...