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Installing New Rb25 Oem Nissan Lifters Please Help

LaurelPWR

By LaurelPWR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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LaurelPWR Rising Star

LaurelPWR

Posted
Posted

Hey lads

Just bought a new set of lifers. As these are new they are rock solid hard and can not be compressed at all!

My local cylinder head shop has told me to open all the lifers and pull them apart as if you were rebuilding them and blow the oem test oil out of them, then put them back together. He said they should be compressed easily by hand/fingers so when they are installed to the head they won't jam a valve open on the initial run but will be very noisy for a bit until they pump up..

Now all rebuild DIY's and tutorials I have read and watched suggests to 'bleed down' the lifter body and remove all air so that they are rock hard prior to reinstallation.....

Bit of conflicting info here can someone please let me know if the head shop is full of $h!7

The car already has type A poncams and is getting a set of performance springs/retainers installed as well as the new lifers

  • Like 1
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Are they definitely brand new? Seems odd that new ones wont compress

I soaked mine in fuel for a few days then compressed them using a vice (and some bits of wood to prevent damage) to get the old oil out then put them in a tub of new oil for a week or so then pumped them in the oil to get some new oil through them.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

I installed New LS7 lifters into an LS1 without worrying about messing with them, they were very hard to compress also, it was the rooted ones that came out that were compressible by hand, just my experience so far....

LaurelPWR Rising Star

LaurelPWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I installed New LS7 lifters into an LS1 without worrying about messing with them, they were very hard to compress also, it was the rooted ones that came out that were compressible by hand, just my experience so far....

This is what's confusing me, all the diy lifter rebuild/clean threads state that when putting them back together, make sure you can't compress them and install the valve back into the bucket rock solid.. so if it could cause a valve to jam open, why would nissan or anyone do it like this..?

http://www.speed-industries.ch/wordpress/2011/02/15/inside-performance-clean-your-lifters/?lang=en

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/917346/Lifter-Rebuild-101.html

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I havent had any issues with mine.

There is oil pressure to keep them from compressing when the engine is running, and the idea of hydraulic lifters is to negate the need for valve adjustment/shimming by letting the lifter set the valve clearance. If they are tight, it is still unlikely to cause a problem, but for me I would much prefer them to compress and also to be able to create pressure within the lifter when covering the oil ports. Both of which I was able to do

LaurelPWR Rising Star

LaurelPWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers for the replys lads! I already had a couple of lifters apart before i posted this so i just put them back together using the methods in the diy threads i posted above and using royal purple 10w40.... now super noob question time - should i do this to the other 19 lol or will that clear/yellow oem test/run in oil get pushed out of the inner valve eventually and fill with my engine oil?

Edited by LaurelPWR
LaurelPWR Rising Star

LaurelPWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I doubt Nissan would ship them with something harmful left in them. Its really up to you though.

Actually, funny you say that you just reminded.. me some of them have tiny bits rust on the sides of them and tiny little bits floating around in the sealed packaging....

this was the whole reason i even went to the cylinder head shop in the first place! so yeah answered my own question haha ill get some pics of a few of them tomorrow

  • 2 years later...
Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you pull them out of a head they should be put back in the same place because they set themselves to the correct clearance for the valve. It is possible to put them back in the wrong places and have low compression from valves being held slightly open. If they get mixed up the best way is to dismantle, bleed down and reassemble. Sit them upright submerged in a light engine oil overnight to refill them, then reinstall.

Also you can hold them individually upright under oil and push the bottom plunger to speed up the refilling of oil.

Edited by Dobz
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Okay so went to clean my lifters and found a bit of a surprise. One set came out of an RB20DET and one set came out of an RB20DE. As you can see they are 2 completely different lifters. The internal depth on one is very different to the other (10mm compared to 7mm) and they are just very different overall. Nissan FAST says that both engines should use the same lifters, which have P/N# 13231-79S00

The one on the left is the DET, and on the right is the DE. I was going to dissassemble the DE lifter and clean it but it is impossible to get the lifter body removed, hitting the shit out of it doesn't work and neither does vice grips. You are easily able to push the lifter body further inside the lifter using just finger pressure but getting it out is a different story.

Any advice appreciated

 

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Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

They are likely just set at different levels though the oil feed groove difference is a bit odd. Are they both springy or set solid?

Holding the lifter between your thumb and second finger with the index finger on top you have to slap it down onto the wood with a bit of force. When you turn it over you will see the plunger will be level with the bottom of the bucket then you can pull it with multi grips. It can make your fingers a bit sore after doing twenty four of them but it's the easiest way i've found.

  • 1 year later...
Slap Rising Star

Slap

Posted
Posted

I know this is old but was there an answer for the difference?

I believe the De uses softer valve springs, would that have much to do with it?

Is the cam(s) lift different det 2 de?

Is one an inlet and the other an exausht?

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