Jump to content
SAU Community

Problem Fitting Aftermarket Wheels

mkn23
 Share

Recommended Posts

mkn23 Collaborator

mkn23

Posted
Posted

So I picked up a used set of wheels, Rays Gram Lights 18x7.5 +47 with 245s all round for a good price but I'm having fitment issues. Tire clearance is perfectly fine but actually fitting the wheels on isn't.

To my knowledge the stud pattern is 5x114.3 so the rears fit fine apart from my lug nuts which don't seem to fit or lock, correct me if I'm wrong but we can't use OEM nuts and the thread pattern is 12x1.25? And I got the Rays Dura Aluminium for like $50, probably replicas but I don't mind (unless that's the reason they won't lock on properly).

The front rotors have this extra half stud thing, did a bit of research and it looks like it's in the place of the rotor lock down nut, the rear rotors have a flat bolt/screw that is flat on the plate whereas the fronts in the same area is protruding outwards.

Just wondering if you guys have any solutions before I hassle my mechanic with changing my tires...

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458552-problem-fitting-aftermarket-wheels/
Share on other sites
Lakes101 Experienced

Lakes101

Posted
Posted

Take some pics of the rotor hats and studs to help us help you. And yep I reckon the issue is with the cheap knock off lug nuts you bought. I have used cheap ones before on my first car and never again they stripped the threads as they are weak and the thread pitch is not correct and off centre, which lead to loosing a rear wheel around a corner!! Not fun stay away from cheap lug nuts mate as I learned they literally have your life riding on them

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

Why on earth would you buy such evil offset wheels? The rears will actually sit another 6mm further inside the guards than even stock wheels :yucky: . People normally put on wheels with 50mm wider track to give the car some stance - not actually fit worse offset wheels. These will look beyond shit, I am sorry to tell you. I would be checking your strut clearance, especially on the rear - I wouldn't be surprised if they are hitting, and that is what is causing your fitment issues.

  • Like 1
mkn23 Collaborator

mkn23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not really going for the stance look, if I wanted I could just run some spacers maybe but they're my first non OEM wheels for cheap so I'm not fussed. Fronts are +45 and rears are +50, so I assumed +47 would be suitable in the middle of the two.

I'll give it another shot tonight with some more tools (and sleep) and take some pictures.

Any recommended lug nut brands? Not looking to fork out huge amounts of money but a reliable and decent looking set would be nice. And also would it better to be open ended or close ended?

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted

if I wanted I could just run some spacers maybe but they're my first non OEM wheels for cheap so I'm not fussed.

get fussed, its more important that you realise, it will look arse, track worse and be less safe than stock aswell as illegal.

im not the nanny police when it comes to wheels but your actively taking a step backwards for no viable reason.

mkn23 Collaborator

mkn23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So after further research, the half nut out front is just a dummy nut removable with the right tools and effort.

And I've decided to run 20mm bolt on spacers all round, would that make the fitment 'decent'?

colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
Posted

So after further research, the half nut out front is just a dummy nut removable with the right tools and effort.

And I've decided to run 20mm bolt on spacers all round, would that make the fitment 'decent'?

You'll be fine. Just make sure the spacers are done properly and redone after driving a few hundred kms.

I run 25mm front and 20mm rear with OEM wheels. Yes they are probably illegal but most mods are illegal unless you get a certificate.

  • Like 1
mkn23 Collaborator

mkn23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You'll be fine. Just make sure the spacers are done properly and redone after driving a few hundred kms.

I run 25mm front and 20mm rear with OEM wheels. Yes they are probably illegal but most mods are illegal unless you get a certificate.

which brand spacers did you get?

Spacers are illegal in Australia.

everything fun is illegal in Australia.

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

If you have an accident and they realise you have spacers on (which they WILL) your insurer will not pay you a single cent, as you have contravened all laws by running spacers. Plenty of people do it, but be warned.

Just buy the correct offset wheels and be done with it.

colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
Posted

which brand spacers did you get?

H&R trak+ drm

Yes please be aware it is illegal and insurers can try screwing you over for using them.

I am just sharing what I use and it is for me personally and whatever you take out of it is your responsibility and i will not be responsible for anything that happens.

mkn23 Collaborator

mkn23

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update:

I've fitted the wheels and nuts and it looks okay...bit tucked in so I'll be going with the 25mm spacers from gktech

At first the fronts were making a strange noise but I tightened the nuts and it was all good but the rears eventually made a rubbing, squeaking noise every time I braked, checked the rotors and it seemed something on the pad was somehow scratching the rotor, brought to the mechanic right around the corner because I my normal mechanic was booked out till next week and the guy said it just needed to be machined again as it was done properly, so I just let him do his thing to get it over and done with. Picked it up the next morning, the guy said he fit a smaller spacer (wot? didn't realise there was a spacer) to fix the noise but there was some noise still evident but he just said it just needed to be bedded in so off I went and with more driving the noise got louder so now I'll be leaving it on Monday to see what the issue is.

And before I went to the mechanic, I put my stock rears back on and the same sound could be heard so it wouldn't be the wheels.

Here's a pic

wvqwk0.jpg

Edited by mkn23

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...