Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See Nissan got a little smarter on subsequent models and they determined that in order for the ATTESA all-wheel-drive system to come into play faster once wheel spin is detected, the transfer case should be preloaded (with hydraulic pressure). This meant that as soon as the pump was switched on by the controller, the system would already have significant pressure to dramatically reduce the time taken to engage the front wheels. We're only talking about milliseconds here but anyone who has driven both an R32 and R34 GTR on the limit will appreciate the difference.

I stole that from an article. Sorry.

There most be a faster way to engage the attessa 4wd system way faster. This is like such a big difference its ridiculous. Some would say us a electronic torque split controller. Is it possible to do it manually for the purpose of getting a better launch. What are some mechanical ways to have it done??

I was thinking of a hand pump to engage the system with some kind of pressure release at a certain speed. You would have a hand pump with a gauge and have it fully release to do a burn out. Then pump it up for the launch. Leave the line and at a certain speed have a release vavle let the pressure to to reduce drag on lets say cars without the potential to rip the tire loose in all gears. Like mine. :lol:

Am i crazy??

Hmm

Just had a wierd idea again. Is there a way to activate the attessa system using a button and let it go after the launch. Just to have it in full 50/50 split off the line. ????

This is the rod between the piston and fork. If i mod this to be an adjustable unit. Im thinking it can compensate for a worn disk. What you guys think

I think it would be like replacing the pressure plate on a clutch without replacing the driven plate. It might improve things in the short term but wold soon wear out what's left of the driven plates. However it would be relatively easy to try - certainly easier than transplanting the whole attessa system from an R33.

Local tuner Glenn Suckling built a 7 second R32 and says he had 3 computers controlling the awd but I suspect it took many thousands of $$$ as well as a lot of time so probably not an example for you!

http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/7-second-itch-thegds-motorsport-gtr/

Im saw an r33 gear box for sale. But dont know how to identify a r33 box. But that wouldnt be the solution. The reaction time would still be laggy comparing to the r33. Unless the preload is in the case and now created by hydraulic pressure. ???

Im reading these threads. Leaning hard to fullrace ets extreme. Still need to understand the system tho. I love the launch from a r33. I have most of my money in my r32 gtr and need to get it off the line if not equal as my r33 even better.

Im reading these threads. Leaning hard to fullrace ets extreme. Still need to understand the system tho. I love the launch from a r33. I have most of my money in my r32 gtr and need to get it off the line if not equal as my r33 even better.

Read the link to Glenn Sucklings car I posted above. It refers to him manually pumping up the awd on the way back to the line after doing a 2wd burnout.

Thats simply what i want. Unlike him im far from 1628hp. So i wont need the 4wd all.the way down the track. But im envisioning the set up ill need to do. Ill just need full 50/50 for 2 gears. 1st and 2nd. Then i can have a electronic valve at the hit of a button release the 4wd. For less friction and more rwd movment. So ill plot it out. Just one thing. Whats the max pressure needed for full engagement. I can do this.

Ok let me take a few moments to explain what im thinking.

I want to retain the factory system and have a manual pump up system. So ill send the attessa line in the car with a bottle valve. This valve will separate the factory system from my manual system im going to set up on the other side of this bottle valve. (Towards T-case.) All the mods happen here. Im going to use a 240sx hydraulic ebrake setup to pump it up. Im going to have a pressure release valve in line so i cant over pressurize the system (will need to know the max attessa pressure for full engagement.) Next im planning on this pressure side to T-case have an emergency electronic release valve . Im planning on having some kind of computer at predetermined speed engage. Letting the attessa system bleed back to resivour. I will have one way check valves stoping the pressure to interfere with the manual pump when the valve is open for normal operating.

Hope its doesn't sound crazy. Lol. Ill draw it out on the weekend.

Ok. I got greenline to supply the disk to me. And ill rebuild the transfercase.

I just finished installing a r32 gtr attessa pump on my gts4 after i found a leak on the pressure sensor. First it was a hose i changed that clean everything. Next after a day of driving i found more oil on the diff. So i pulled the whole diff from the gts4 and replaced the pump with the whole unit from the r32 gtr. Ill post back the results. Soon.

I guess you are using this for drag racing use only, for circuit or rally use there are a range of electronic controllers that give excellent results.

For drag use I've either seen custom system like you are looking at, OR, HKS used to make a controller for drag racing that provided a fixed split.

There is nothing wrong with the mechanical system for drag use, you just want it to operate at a different time....so the right computer is all you need

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...