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Hey guys, recently had my car (33 with a rb25det) tuned at Unigroup and reached 256kW at 18psi with the following mods;

-PFC

-FMIC with 76mm core

-3" turbo back exhaust

-hypergear ATR43-SS2 .82 rear

-Z32 afm on a custom 80mm alloy intake

-split fire coil packs

-Denso 550cc injectors

-walbro 460 fuel pump

Tried tuning at 20psi but apparently the actuator wouldn't hold up and would play around, sometimes holding 20psi sometimes dropping to 16-18 towards the end so stayed with 18psi. I now have a stronger 23psi rated actuator to install, apart from putting that in and up'ing the boost, what do you recommend to get closer to the 300kW mark ?

Thanks in advance

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Why is E85 costly? Just fill up the tank and get a retune and settle for whatever it will make with the current injectors etc and the new boost level. Don't bother with cams. And next time you are not satisfied with the dyno figures ask the tuner what you need to make more.

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It seems almost 50kw short of the mark. Does it feel laggy? I would be carefully looking at exhaust restrictions and can timing.

Could just be a very tired engine with low comp. Also lol at tuner recommending cams, probably the worst value for money modification you could do in your current situation.

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Not really to be honest, it picks up quite well around 3000-3500rpm. I have a 3" turbo back with an empty cat, so I'm stumped. The car drives well so I dont think the tunes out of whack, so recommendations would be forget cams and look at the behavior/condition of the engine itself ?

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That's about the range where it should be coming hard into boost. For reference I had exactly the same setup as you but I had a neo engine and nistune. I made 315kw on 20psi on 98octane.

Have you talked to stao about the actuator? He may have just forgot to correctly set the pre load on it.

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I see the Neo made 308kw on 18psi so I guess you thought you would be closer. I see you didn't change the intercooler. Did you ever get around to measuring the pressure drop or temperature differences between inlet and outlet? Does your Nistune run an IAT sensor? If so you could just try fitting a bigger FMIC and see if it makes any difference (you could just use the 80 - 120km/h time as a measure) and then get a retune when you have the new actuator fitted.

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Yeah that was the thought, didn't think there would be a 50kW difference. I did change the intercooler, went up from the 67mm to the JustJap 76mm core, but no didn't get the chance to Measure the differences. I have a Power FC so not sure about the IAT sensor ? I'm planning to fit the actuator soon and bump up the boost to 20 (apparently I don't need a tune with the new actuator) but a bit lost from there on

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The absolute first thing I would do before ANYTHING else (if you haven't already done this) is a compression test for the engine. There's no point changing anything if the engine itself is the problem. If that comes back healthy then play around with it but don't waste your money doing cams and retunes and E85 fuel systems and the tens of thousands of dollars that go into those mods only to find out it was all wasted and start from scratch.

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