Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently had my car (33 with a rb25det) tuned at Unigroup and reached 256kW at 18psi with the following mods;

-PFC

-FMIC with 76mm core

-3" turbo back exhaust

-hypergear ATR43-SS2 .82 rear

-Z32 afm on a custom 80mm alloy intake

-split fire coil packs

-Denso 550cc injectors

-walbro 460 fuel pump

Tried tuning at 20psi but apparently the actuator wouldn't hold up and would play around, sometimes holding 20psi sometimes dropping to 16-18 towards the end so stayed with 18psi. I now have a stronger 23psi rated actuator to install, apart from putting that in and up'ing the boost, what do you recommend to get closer to the 300kW mark ?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/
Share on other sites

Why is E85 costly? Just fill up the tank and get a retune and settle for whatever it will make with the current injectors etc and the new boost level. Don't bother with cams. And next time you are not satisfied with the dyno figures ask the tuner what you need to make more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595234
Share on other sites

It seems almost 50kw short of the mark. Does it feel laggy? I would be carefully looking at exhaust restrictions and can timing.

Could just be a very tired engine with low comp. Also lol at tuner recommending cams, probably the worst value for money modification you could do in your current situation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595295
Share on other sites

Not really to be honest, it picks up quite well around 3000-3500rpm. I have a 3" turbo back with an empty cat, so I'm stumped. The car drives well so I dont think the tunes out of whack, so recommendations would be forget cams and look at the behavior/condition of the engine itself ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595311
Share on other sites

That's about the range where it should be coming hard into boost. For reference I had exactly the same setup as you but I had a neo engine and nistune. I made 315kw on 20psi on 98octane.

Have you talked to stao about the actuator? He may have just forgot to correctly set the pre load on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595313
Share on other sites

I see the Neo made 308kw on 18psi so I guess you thought you would be closer. I see you didn't change the intercooler. Did you ever get around to measuring the pressure drop or temperature differences between inlet and outlet? Does your Nistune run an IAT sensor? If so you could just try fitting a bigger FMIC and see if it makes any difference (you could just use the 80 - 120km/h time as a measure) and then get a retune when you have the new actuator fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595994
Share on other sites

Yeah that was the thought, didn't think there would be a 50kW difference. I did change the intercooler, went up from the 67mm to the JustJap 76mm core, but no didn't get the chance to Measure the differences. I have a Power FC so not sure about the IAT sensor ? I'm planning to fit the actuator soon and bump up the boost to 20 (apparently I don't need a tune with the new actuator) but a bit lost from there on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7596004
Share on other sites

The absolute first thing I would do before ANYTHING else (if you haven't already done this) is a compression test for the engine. There's no point changing anything if the engine itself is the problem. If that comes back healthy then play around with it but don't waste your money doing cams and retunes and E85 fuel systems and the tens of thousands of dollars that go into those mods only to find out it was all wasted and start from scratch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7596016
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...