Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently had my car (33 with a rb25det) tuned at Unigroup and reached 256kW at 18psi with the following mods;

-PFC

-FMIC with 76mm core

-3" turbo back exhaust

-hypergear ATR43-SS2 .82 rear

-Z32 afm on a custom 80mm alloy intake

-split fire coil packs

-Denso 550cc injectors

-walbro 460 fuel pump

Tried tuning at 20psi but apparently the actuator wouldn't hold up and would play around, sometimes holding 20psi sometimes dropping to 16-18 towards the end so stayed with 18psi. I now have a stronger 23psi rated actuator to install, apart from putting that in and up'ing the boost, what do you recommend to get closer to the 300kW mark ?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/
Share on other sites

Why is E85 costly? Just fill up the tank and get a retune and settle for whatever it will make with the current injectors etc and the new boost level. Don't bother with cams. And next time you are not satisfied with the dyno figures ask the tuner what you need to make more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595234
Share on other sites

It seems almost 50kw short of the mark. Does it feel laggy? I would be carefully looking at exhaust restrictions and can timing.

Could just be a very tired engine with low comp. Also lol at tuner recommending cams, probably the worst value for money modification you could do in your current situation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595295
Share on other sites

Not really to be honest, it picks up quite well around 3000-3500rpm. I have a 3" turbo back with an empty cat, so I'm stumped. The car drives well so I dont think the tunes out of whack, so recommendations would be forget cams and look at the behavior/condition of the engine itself ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595311
Share on other sites

That's about the range where it should be coming hard into boost. For reference I had exactly the same setup as you but I had a neo engine and nistune. I made 315kw on 20psi on 98octane.

Have you talked to stao about the actuator? He may have just forgot to correctly set the pre load on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595313
Share on other sites

I see the Neo made 308kw on 18psi so I guess you thought you would be closer. I see you didn't change the intercooler. Did you ever get around to measuring the pressure drop or temperature differences between inlet and outlet? Does your Nistune run an IAT sensor? If so you could just try fitting a bigger FMIC and see if it makes any difference (you could just use the 80 - 120km/h time as a measure) and then get a retune when you have the new actuator fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7595994
Share on other sites

Yeah that was the thought, didn't think there would be a 50kW difference. I did change the intercooler, went up from the 67mm to the JustJap 76mm core, but no didn't get the chance to Measure the differences. I have a Power FC so not sure about the IAT sensor ? I'm planning to fit the actuator soon and bump up the boost to 20 (apparently I don't need a tune with the new actuator) but a bit lost from there on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7596004
Share on other sites

The absolute first thing I would do before ANYTHING else (if you haven't already done this) is a compression test for the engine. There's no point changing anything if the engine itself is the problem. If that comes back healthy then play around with it but don't waste your money doing cams and retunes and E85 fuel systems and the tens of thousands of dollars that go into those mods only to find out it was all wasted and start from scratch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459294-recommendations/#findComment-7596016
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...