Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 06 PM35 stagea is stuck in 4th gear, the mechanic tells me that I'll need a new valve body; however there's no Nissan dealers thay can programme the new valve body to my car. The importer replaced some solenoids in the gearbox when it was imported, they've stuffed up again that's the reason we think it's the valve body. Can't get another box because like before, it needs to be programmed to the car. Is there anyone in Aus that's replaced a PM35 VQ35 auto box.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459386-valve-body-programming/
Share on other sites

so its stuck? not in limp mode? no A/T lights up on the dash?

you've replaced the solenoids before and it sorted the issue (temporarily)?

I presume it's in limp mode, when you first turn the car on it drives fine for about 30 seconds then it jolts and is stuck in 4th. The A/T light also lights up on the dash and yes, replacing the solenoids temporarily fixed the issue.

That would be in limp mode, there is no point changing anything until you know the code. I assume it's nearly impossible to find a Consult3 unit up there?

I suspect the wiring is hooked up in the shift mechanism or something is shorting out. Similar faults happen when the trans fluid is too hot, so it could be the temp sensor or wiring. Might pay to drop the sump and check the imprters didn't fluck something up.

That would be in limp mode, there is no point changing anything until you know the code. I assume it's nearly impossible to find a Consult3 unit up there?

I suspect the wiring is hooked up in the shift mechanism or something is shorting out. Similar faults happen when the trans fluid is too hot, so it could be the temp sensor or wiring. Might pay to drop the sump and check the imprters didn't fluck something up.

The car had this problem when it first came into Australia in June. I took it to get diagnosed and fault codes came up solenoids, it's at a transmission specialist at the moment but they've never seen anything like it before. The work is getting done under insurance so don't mind getting a whole new box if it comes down to it.

Mechanic couldn't do anything so I had a talk to wholesale automatic transmissions. They couldn't help me with my problem but they said they're gonna contact their Japanese associates and see what they can do for me. The problem I'm having is that the mechatronic unit in my box can only be programmed In japan, no Australian nissan dealers or workshop's can do anything.

Aus Nissan dealers have the exact same consult 3+ software, sounds like a load of crap to me. I am sure my mate at Dandenong Nissan could swap it over if it was going to be a problem, that's their job after all.

I have changed over a heap of VQ25det RE5 gearboxes without a drama, I didn't expect you would have issues with the RE5 in the series two, worst case you swap the ecu's in the sump? Mechanically the rest is exactly the same.

Did they drop the pan at all, or was it just too hard? Just have to measure a few resistance measurements, the consult 3 shouldn't be required.

I contacted the nissan dealer here in Darwin, they also said they weren't able to program anything. If you can get in contact with your nissan mate and if it's possible to change the valve body without programming anything that would be great.

I honestly can't tell you what the mechanic has done, im getting seriously pissed off because of the lack of information I'm getting from him.

It takes 5 minutes for a Nissan mech to reprogram, from what i am told. They just chose to put it in the too hard basket I think.

No way a mechanic would disassemble the auto, they would pay a trans specialist to do that usually. Likely you can swap the complete valve body, but if it is indeed keyed to the vin you should be able to swap the ecus over easy enough after removing the valve body again.

Pretty sure the valve bodies are the same as the series 1 M35, with just the ecu grafted on, it's been a while since I did a series 2 shift kit, I don't remember many differences.

I'm gonna go in and see Nissan personally, sick of calling around and getting half assed answers.

By mechanic I mean a transmission specialist, he's the only one in darwin so gotta go see him if I want anything done in thay area. I'm actually not sure what gets programmed? Does the valve body assembly get programed or something else? Still waiting to hear back from a transmission place in Vic, gonna see if they can get the stuff programmed in Japan then sent over to Aus.

What was the name of the trans specialist down here?

Are you sure it needs reprogramming? They would normally read the data off the old ecu and swap it back on to the new one once the valve body was replaced, using the Consult3, via the OBD2 connector.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...