Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

During a track day I have noticed coolant under the reservoir (it pools and runs down near the battery tray and onto the ground).

Is there some kind of relief under there when the coolant gets hot?

The cold coolant level is between the min/max, obviously when the coolant gets hot the level rises. In this case it's sits just above the max level.

I have previously not kept track of the coolant levels, is the leak and the location of the leak something of major concern?

**Noting that the car isn't overheating at the moment

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459469-coolant-leak-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

Check your radiator cap and rating. Replace with a newy if required.

Likely the water is getting hot and traveling down the overflow hose (or as steam)

Remove your reservoir and give it a good look over for crack/leak

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1

Is the overflow bottle actually overflowing? or is high g-force cornering sending it out the top of the overflow?

Your exhaust will create steam during warmup, condensation in the exhaust etc.... Does the exhaust steam smell like coolant?

Is the overflow bottle actually overflowing? or is high g-force cornering sending it out the top of the overflow?

Your exhaust will create steam during warmup, condensation in the exhaust etc.... Does the exhaust steam smell like coolant?

It overflowed on the straight because the ecu cut cylinders/dropped the max allowable revs. Assuming it overflowed when that happened.

Doesn't really smell like coolant but it's hard to tell with the smell of the E85

Water expands when you heat it, it has to go somewhere...

Sounds like you got it hot, very hot. Not the first car to have overheating issues getting thrashed at the track.

What is the best course of action to prevent it overheating? Radiator has been upgraded to a koyorad 6 months ago.

My goal is to be able to do 20 mins of solid driving on the track without overheating.

Note the car is a dedicated track car RB20det with 380rwhp. Has all the modifications to suit.

 

What is the best course of action to prevent it overheating? Radiator has been upgraded to a koyorad 6 months ago.

 

Ducting. Close in the air flow path around the radiator so that the air has to go through the core and not around. Use corflute, grey packing foam, whatever is available and can be shaped and shoved into place.

Refit the undertray if it is not on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...