Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After seeing the demon eyes in my build thread a user (Adz2332) from the forums contacted me to do a budget RGB demon eyes and black out to stock projectors.

Thought id share the results :yes:
below if a sampling of the colours it can produce. (test were done just powered by a 9v battery so with a controller there would be more options. they are also a lot brighter when powered form a 12v source)

11997979_10154288302274896_421239620_n_z

11995432_10154288295614896_716322962_n_z

11994419_10154288295574896_682630046_n_z

11992614_10154288295624896_216252236_n_z

11992421_10154288295604896_347373291_n_z

11950809_10154288295589896_371032380_n_z

11880777_10154288295594896_1567394801_n_

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459493-r32-rgb-demon-eyes-mod/
Share on other sites

What happens when you turn on the headlights?

headlights act as normal. the RGB stuff is on a separate circuit. can control from a switch or there are smartphone add on's to control it form an app.

if you have them on at the same time as the headlights the throw light normally but if viewed at an angle they a tinge of colour

Well I like messing around with the lights, but I think even with the red, green and blue all on making "white", it would still be a defect magnet as red and blue at the front of a car make the cops rather territorial about their colours.

Even many "white" leds tend to be towards the blue end of the spectrum (8000k or higher), and people have claimed to be defected or fined for that.

Well I like messing around with the lights, but I think even with the red, green and blue all on making "white", it would still be a defect magnet as red and blue at the front of a car make the cops rather territorial about their colours.

Even many "white" leds tend to be towards the blue end of the spectrum (8000k or higher), and people have claimed to be defected or fined for that.

yeah they are on a completely separate circuit to the normal headlights or parkers. only really there for wank. track days or photos and such.

would be stupid to drive around with them strobe-ing different colours and hopefully the person i made them for won't do that

Edited by CRSKmD
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...