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I'd be concerned, but having said that it is a skyline...... This is what we have to deal with. Power that is making is fine, don't worry. Compression, yes.

So can you please tell me what race pace said about Power FC V's Haltech as I was looking to go a Haltech, as the car I purchased had a PFC, and the AFMs are maxed and I have E85 local.

Thanks!

The power is an issue for me because I was hoping for more like 450hp.

I'm in two minds about compression given that it's a higher kilometres engine anyway and a rebuild would have always been in my future.

With the spares that come with the car I could go a long way to covering the cost of a rebuild and then I'd have a fresh motor.

The other part of me thinks I could just as easily pass on this and wait until something better comes along. There's still things like the box, diffs, etc to consider

Chris said the Haltech had more features but the PFC ran car better, especially on standard ignition setups and was happier without a crank trigger setup than the Haltech.

Edited by ActionDan

Just received this video.

I have no idea what a "cold" engine should show on a thermal gun but I'd think it would be higher than 23 degrees.

I did mentioned to him that cranking it that many times can give a false positive as the cylinder has a chance to keep building pressure.

He's going to have another go when his brother drops by so he can video the comp gauge building pressure on each stroke for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf5_UfXRlkc

It's one thing to buy a car to drive and build up at your own pace and another to buy one expecting to do a rebuild.

If you budget extends as much then it's worth considering or even worth renegotiating the price slightly if you decide to stay with this one, covering yourself when you rebuild.

GL bud.

The question is whether it needs a rebuild or not. The guy at Godzilla seemed like a bit of an ass to be honest. To then see these comp test results be different doesn't fill me with confidence he did a good job testing it.

I will have another mechanic look it over.

I would have to think that between the 2x Rims, the HKS Catback Exhaust and the RB30 short block there'd have to be 6-7k there, that goes a long way "IF" the car needs a fresh bottom end.

I might stretch and insist I want the PFC also as he was contemplating keeping that.

Well I just got some bad news...

Jap history came with this auction report and these comments. I'll await his summary but I don't think there's any mistaking the front end damage, especially if it implies an oil leak that was not minor.

I realise that the repairs may have been done well, but its still of concern.

"Unfortunately photos of the car at auction are no longer available since the auction took place so long ago now, just the auction sheet itself and related meta-data still exist.

You may have some questions in regard to the grading which is uncommon - a zero grade was awarded to indicate that the vehicle required mechanical repairs (although not noted in detail - the oil leak noted is presumed not to have been minor). Given the other noted repairs which are structural in nature, the vehicle would have received an R grading had it not been for the oil leak issue.

We'll be in touch again shortly with the registration certificate result and summary. "

post-23873-0-02172600-1442355497_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

No idea of the condition, but it does seem like a good base to build, local-ish is also a step in the right direction

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lynbrook/cars-vans-utes/r34-gtr/1087776979

All the best with your search, this is one of my fav threads at the moment, only second to the R34 picture thread

Edited by squareznboxez

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