Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The plot thickens more.

Got this from history check. I assume nobody wanted it at auction so the repaired it kept driving it.

The rego details show a little under 100ks on export so that matches up. The dates also match up with his claims of being the first Aussie owner.

Thanks again for ordering a check with us. Sorry we couldn't get back to you sooner, however after we received the registration certificate we realised that another, later auction sheet result must have existed. We went back and searched the auction archives again and managed to find the second auction result (attached). The summary findings are as follows:

1) Car goes to auction at HAA Kobe, March 2008, with 81,240 kms and mechanical repairs required

2) Car is registered for road use in Japan, April 2008 with 81,200 kms (mileage is always rounded to nearest 100 on registration certificate)

3) Car is registered for road use in Japan, March 2010 with 91,700 kms

4) Car goes to auction at USS Tokyo March 2011 with 94,230 kms

5) Car is complied for road use in Australia, June 2011 by Japanese Performance Vehicles Pty Ltd

post-23873-14428705130949_thumb.jpg

My dads view was offer him what the lower end of the market goes for and get a bargain as no serious buyer or collector will touch it when I sell it.

It was never intended to be a museum piece though.

That would be what, 45k? No chance that will happen but for 47-50 with all those spares might be a bargain...

IMO this is where you're at.

You know the story of the car. Pay less than a "showroom" example and you'll enjoy it more than a garage queen no story car etc and won't be too afraid of getting it dirty and using it to its potential.

I went through Iron Chef back in 2013. Best decision I ever made. Found a pristine example and price was spectacularly good compared to Australian cars on the market.

2.5 years on, 20 psi of boost (-7s 330rwkw) and 145 compression on all 6

http://www.fcautosource.com/SoldListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=10410&makemodel=1999_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R%20VSPEC

Have spoken to him, am going to inspect Thursday.

He proposed a new price including all spares that makes it worth inspecting.

He's currently masking the inner guard for new seam sealer after removing it for inspection after what I told him. He's taken photos of the process.

Seems like a decent guy.

I'm still torn about buying a car that I know has been hit hard enough to require an inner guard, upper and lower radiator support and bonnet...

But then I look around at what else is out there, for the price, then factor in those spares and how much I like the r35 color on it and that when I move it on I'll have the same issues selling.

Hard to balance up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...