Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As an aside, I just saw on reddit of all places a guy talking about buying that car in QLD. As in, he bought it, and seemingly for more than I had negotiated.

Edited by ActionDan

My plan was to sell the PFC L and get a PFC D and ditch the AFMs completely for that reason, but we'll see what happens.

Because cams make the car sound angrier and give more response. What's not to like?

Edited by ActionDan

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

Edited by ActionDan

My plan was to sell the PFC L and get a PFC D and ditch the AFMs completely for that reason, but we'll see what happens.

Because cams make the car sound angrier and give more response. What's not to like?

Why would you go down the D Jetro route with a PFC and not run something that isn't from 1912? The D Jetro you have to pull the intake off to drill number 3 and 4 runners for the the duel MAP sensors. That isn't a $20 exercise of paying a workshop.

Link G4

Haltech

Vipec

All plug in, more features, newer and will cost basically the same money at the end of the day.

No reason, not tied to anything in particular, and if the whole exercise is going to cost that much money, I'll just get better AFMs and a retune and leave the L Jetro in there as that'll likely be the cheapest option.

That's the biggest issue with anything MAP based is installing the sensors unless there's some new fangled way to achieve this? I've seen talk of balance tubes/pcv setups etc but it appears the best way is tapping the manifold?

Edited by ActionDan

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

cmn gears make a huge difference and are worth every cent, we've done testing on multiple engines and bigger duration cams move the curve right (less response) they also lower the compression and make the car worse down low as well

i used to work for one of the tuners in Sydney, but when I say we, I mean me and a few people i know (also on here) who have played with different sized cams in Gtr engines (not all are still 2.6) and have proven that a bigger duration cam will have a negative effect on response

Yeah one of the guys went from a type b to the type r and show massive gains in response, but the only reason he went to the the type r was that he couldn't find a set of stock r34 cams at the time

there are quite a few map ecu's that dont require drilling or anything of the sort.

Like my trusty link g4

Like "they" have said. Bigger cams less response. you want response then just stay stock cams and get cam gears to try and shift the curve left as much as possible.

unless you just want the sound

Re exhaust is that 3.5" all the way? I think ideally I'd like to go -9s and aim for more like 320-330ish with cams for response.

I was planning to get some 600-700cc injectors and a drop in fuel pump just for safety. I actually thought Z32s were a must at that level?

Re the car, discussion with the owner continues and is looking semi promising.

Waiting to hear back from the Jap history check, baring that having some nightmare info I will aim to get up there next Monday to inspect. My partner is away all this weekend coming (so I'll have the kidlet) so that's out.

Just go 3.5" just so you have more room to tune with.

If you are aiming for 320 - 330 rwkw's you'll need to upgrade the injectors.

Fuel pump if you want but not necessary.

AFM's should just do you fine.

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

Just do Cam Gears and get Racepace to set it all up and alter the Crank Angle Censor for response.

Hoping to get up there Monday to inspect. He's sourcing another rear spoiler for it and we've semi negotiated on a price based on me taking the diffuser, spoiler, guards etc and the car staying as is. I'll immediately get it all colour coded.

I note it's also missing the front most inner wheel plastic so I'll have to source some.

Seems far too coincidental to have not been in a front-ender, but I'll inspect and see. He said he was not aware there should be any plastics there and the rest of the wheel arch plastics are there.

I'm going to buy a new comp tester to take with me and do it while I'm there as well.

I've been looking at indoor car covers, thoughts? the show car style ones with the soft fleece lining as my shed gets dusty.

Also been looking at new rays stickers for the wheels (red superlap style) are those just stuck on or are they cleared over the top of?

Looking at rays centre caps and black wheel nuts as I'm not keen on the red/pink ones and some black drop sheet style seat covers to replace the red.

JapHistory check has not replied to anything I've sent them, that's twice they have been really slow in replying, I won't be using them again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...