Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK more pics.

Underside looks reasonable. I also spot nismo pillar garnishes.

He was showing me the centre trim wrap as I spotted a poorly done job in a previous photo, he said he;s now re-done it. If need be I can replace those parts but I'm not totally against it.

That exhaust looks loud 0_0

Couldn't spot any obvious signs of rear impact either (given boot lock difference mentioned).

He mentioned replacing the rotors and pads as the old rotors had a small groove and he didn't see the point in machining them when new ones were so cheap (they are only RDA rotors but Project Mu pads). He said I could also have the old pads which were nearly new.

Oh and he was happy with my comment of the asking price if it included ALL spares (inc the motor). A spool rb30 rebuild kit starts at 2k, the machining was 2k, so surely the assembled short motor has to be worth 3-4k.

post-23873-0-59734900-1441922668_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-27941100-1441922670_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-97504000-1441922672_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-89804200-1441922674_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-89661600-1441922676_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-47614400-1441922679_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-31829100-1441922682_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-31671900-1441922684_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

I saw it first....

53k including all the spares.

original turbos, injectors, a spare hks silent exhaust, 2x rota rims, the rb30 short motor, power FC, etc

Edited by ActionDan

I'm getting a lot of comments on Facebook (where I have a wanted to buy) and from people offering me there cars that there's no way in hell that I'll get anything remotely good for under 60k and that all cheaop GT-Rs are cheao because they are dodgy/crashed etc.

How rife is that within this market?

I was suspect about the respray hiding damage and will never really be able to tell, but if the k's are genuine and the car presents nicely etc, what else am I missing?

Based on everything I have seen and what you are getting seems like a good deal.

Yes that exhaust is loud.

However, pictures only tell so much.

Things to consider with this car,

The standard turbos need to be binned!

By selling the spares you will basically fund a replacement fuel setup and turbos for a daily 300ish kW.

I would just sell them off, i wouldn't keep them. It has -5s

It seems to have a decent enough fuel setup already and is support 340 or so rwkw.

My goal would be to sell the spares and leave the money sitting there for a stroker purely for ease of fitment as the 30 requires a fair bit of fabrication to work.

Edited by ActionDan

If it checks out compression wise and I like the car when I inspect it, I'm leaning towards that.

Godzilla Motorsport (where the car is going for a check over/tune) won't answer the phone though.

Edited by ActionDan

Seems good from pictures and information you are being supplied is good. People tend to avoid most/some of the questions you have thrown his way.

If you can't fault the car when you get up close and inspect well, then the price he is offering is good. What he has valued the car at could be completely different to what another seller believes it is worth. The important thing to take from it is that the history check from Japan will identify any issues before import and you can usually work out if a crash/impact has occurred while here.

Personally if I was in the market for a car like this, the price he is asking is good, tasteful mods already and some spare stuff you can use or sell off. Take the plunge and personally look at it yourself and then be ready to make the call when you are there.

I do, and limited use, and stored in shed not garage, behind locked gates etc. Rating 1, all that jazz.

As for the car, I'm inspecting on the 22-23rd or so, will leave deposit if I like what I see.

I'm trying hard not to get excited so I don't get disappointed.

Already pricing NACA duct through Terry's guy.

Working out if I clear coat the wheels (I like gloss) or just sell for something gloss with better fitment (they seem a little tame offset wise).

I applaud your plans for the car but just as you said, decide that once you're holding the keys.

Hope this is the one for you but just time wasted planning if its not I guess.

Not to digress too much but seen your threads about 33/34v35, was dollars the factor in picking the 34 or otherwise?

I would only take a 35 if the price was right, I thought I had one lined up but it appears to have fallen through and the potential seller is no longer responding (cold feet perhaps or maybe it was easier for him to trade the car in as he said he might).

I only considered that as it was a great price, If I had to buy at market value, it would be hard for me to justify 90k+ sitting in the shed getting the rare drive so I backed out of that option. Rare because I have a 2.5yr old and am very reluctant to put a baby sit in any GT-R I buy and damage the rear seats.

Then it came time to choose between the 33 and 34, the big issue there is head vs heart. I owned a Series 2 R33 V-Spec, loved it, but always wanted a 34 purely for the interior and exterior aesthetics. I know they are line ball performance wise.

For 20k less I could have a 33 that's fully built, and that's a hard option to pass up knowing the rebuild costs of a blown RB26.

Bottom line though, as this is a buy it and keep it car, I've always REALLY wanted an R34, in that colour, with black wheels.

IF we say I can make 3-4k on the spares, surely more but let's keep it low. That becomes a fairly nice 34, series 2 no less, for 49-50k, that seems like good value.

Yeah theyre priced around double the R34 GTR plus transfer fees/insurance higher also.

Value wise, it's definitely priced well and with all the additional parts you could sell off. There are almost as few r34 gtr's for sale these days as r32 gtrs at least on carsales.

See how things weigh up, I'm a technical bloke, I buy with my head and build it with my heart.

Oh and have any of you gone through the process of adding the v-spec sensors to the car (exhaust and intake temp).

I've read this can be done by buying the physical sensors then putting the MFD into diag mode.

Alternatively, has anyone fitted the Nismo option MFD PCD as I will defs be running more than 1.2bar of boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...