Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK more pics.

Underside looks reasonable. I also spot nismo pillar garnishes.

He was showing me the centre trim wrap as I spotted a poorly done job in a previous photo, he said he;s now re-done it. If need be I can replace those parts but I'm not totally against it.

That exhaust looks loud 0_0

Couldn't spot any obvious signs of rear impact either (given boot lock difference mentioned).

He mentioned replacing the rotors and pads as the old rotors had a small groove and he didn't see the point in machining them when new ones were so cheap (they are only RDA rotors but Project Mu pads). He said I could also have the old pads which were nearly new.

Oh and he was happy with my comment of the asking price if it included ALL spares (inc the motor). A spool rb30 rebuild kit starts at 2k, the machining was 2k, so surely the assembled short motor has to be worth 3-4k.

post-23873-0-59734900-1441922668_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-27941100-1441922670_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-97504000-1441922672_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-89804200-1441922674_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-89661600-1441922676_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-47614400-1441922679_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-31829100-1441922682_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-31671900-1441922684_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

I saw it first....

53k including all the spares.

original turbos, injectors, a spare hks silent exhaust, 2x rota rims, the rb30 short motor, power FC, etc

Edited by ActionDan

I'm getting a lot of comments on Facebook (where I have a wanted to buy) and from people offering me there cars that there's no way in hell that I'll get anything remotely good for under 60k and that all cheaop GT-Rs are cheao because they are dodgy/crashed etc.

How rife is that within this market?

I was suspect about the respray hiding damage and will never really be able to tell, but if the k's are genuine and the car presents nicely etc, what else am I missing?

Based on everything I have seen and what you are getting seems like a good deal.

Yes that exhaust is loud.

However, pictures only tell so much.

Things to consider with this car,

The standard turbos need to be binned!

By selling the spares you will basically fund a replacement fuel setup and turbos for a daily 300ish kW.

I would just sell them off, i wouldn't keep them. It has -5s

It seems to have a decent enough fuel setup already and is support 340 or so rwkw.

My goal would be to sell the spares and leave the money sitting there for a stroker purely for ease of fitment as the 30 requires a fair bit of fabrication to work.

Edited by ActionDan

If it checks out compression wise and I like the car when I inspect it, I'm leaning towards that.

Godzilla Motorsport (where the car is going for a check over/tune) won't answer the phone though.

Edited by ActionDan

Seems good from pictures and information you are being supplied is good. People tend to avoid most/some of the questions you have thrown his way.

If you can't fault the car when you get up close and inspect well, then the price he is offering is good. What he has valued the car at could be completely different to what another seller believes it is worth. The important thing to take from it is that the history check from Japan will identify any issues before import and you can usually work out if a crash/impact has occurred while here.

Personally if I was in the market for a car like this, the price he is asking is good, tasteful mods already and some spare stuff you can use or sell off. Take the plunge and personally look at it yourself and then be ready to make the call when you are there.

I do, and limited use, and stored in shed not garage, behind locked gates etc. Rating 1, all that jazz.

As for the car, I'm inspecting on the 22-23rd or so, will leave deposit if I like what I see.

I'm trying hard not to get excited so I don't get disappointed.

Already pricing NACA duct through Terry's guy.

Working out if I clear coat the wheels (I like gloss) or just sell for something gloss with better fitment (they seem a little tame offset wise).

I applaud your plans for the car but just as you said, decide that once you're holding the keys.

Hope this is the one for you but just time wasted planning if its not I guess.

Not to digress too much but seen your threads about 33/34v35, was dollars the factor in picking the 34 or otherwise?

I would only take a 35 if the price was right, I thought I had one lined up but it appears to have fallen through and the potential seller is no longer responding (cold feet perhaps or maybe it was easier for him to trade the car in as he said he might).

I only considered that as it was a great price, If I had to buy at market value, it would be hard for me to justify 90k+ sitting in the shed getting the rare drive so I backed out of that option. Rare because I have a 2.5yr old and am very reluctant to put a baby sit in any GT-R I buy and damage the rear seats.

Then it came time to choose between the 33 and 34, the big issue there is head vs heart. I owned a Series 2 R33 V-Spec, loved it, but always wanted a 34 purely for the interior and exterior aesthetics. I know they are line ball performance wise.

For 20k less I could have a 33 that's fully built, and that's a hard option to pass up knowing the rebuild costs of a blown RB26.

Bottom line though, as this is a buy it and keep it car, I've always REALLY wanted an R34, in that colour, with black wheels.

IF we say I can make 3-4k on the spares, surely more but let's keep it low. That becomes a fairly nice 34, series 2 no less, for 49-50k, that seems like good value.

Yeah theyre priced around double the R34 GTR plus transfer fees/insurance higher also.

Value wise, it's definitely priced well and with all the additional parts you could sell off. There are almost as few r34 gtr's for sale these days as r32 gtrs at least on carsales.

See how things weigh up, I'm a technical bloke, I buy with my head and build it with my heart.

Oh and have any of you gone through the process of adding the v-spec sensors to the car (exhaust and intake temp).

I've read this can be done by buying the physical sensors then putting the MFD into diag mode.

Alternatively, has anyone fitted the Nismo option MFD PCD as I will defs be running more than 1.2bar of boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...