Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could do, do not know. I will probably have the motor out by the look of things and will see what can be done at the same time ???

Who is doing the work?

Why the cam change?

Were they dialled in extensively last tune?

Why not just chuck some chemiweld in?

Who is doing the work?

Why the cam change?

Were they dialled in extensively last tune?

Why not just chuck some chemiweld in?

Jez will be doing the work.

Cams were dialled for a more even result, top and bottom

I believe Chemiweld had already been used, but that is only a guess

If I did change the CR . probably go 9:1

But I will not make any decision until it is pulled down and the problem found and go from there once I find out the initial problem :(

If you're happy with everything else then why not just resolve the head gasket issue?

Who said it was a head gasket, hope you are right, I tend to always think the worse and anything less is always a better outcome :)

Not going to say anything until the problem is found and fixed, I will go from there but while the car is in the shop might do a couple of tweaks.

Car goes in 12th of next month :rolleyes:

I will not bore you blokes until I have some results and poke the new Dyno Graph up

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

hmm I was just thinking about this thread the other day.

cracked block would be a bad outcome, but it doesn't really reflect on any shop involved in the build, its more just bad luck. You were pushing a mile of power through a standard wall block and it's not unheard of.

I am amazed sometimes on this thread.

At first the water lose was on a low boost run in tune and limited to 5000rpm, this was in March this year.

This water situation started from the first day of the build, it was not noticeable at first as I was checking the radiator, cold in the mornings and not the overflow, once the overflow emptied then it was noticeable from the radiator. I have always checked from the radiator so I knew exactly how much water was being used, I used a measuring cup.

The amount used on different driving situations was and is the same from day one as it was when we found the water in the oil.

Yet the oil still looked clean on the stick , not as you would expect ?

Edward lee now crd?

If I am not mistaken they said they tak no responsibility for any issues after Jez touched it. Therefor the only way you will have a chance at getting them to fork up for the new repairs is by taking them to court.

Or am I mistaken

I took them to NCAT, a tribunal were you can negotiate and come to a mutual agreement, I sat at home on the phone during this procedure. he was just a smart arse and told me to fark off, I didn't!

This situation is early days and the motor has to be checked , I am sure it can be worked out, until then it is just another bump in the road.

Some blokes should put themselves in the other persons shoes before posting, think about what you would do in the same situation , roll over like a dog , yeah sure ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...