Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could do, do not know. I will probably have the motor out by the look of things and will see what can be done at the same time ???

Who is doing the work?

Why the cam change?

Were they dialled in extensively last tune?

Why not just chuck some chemiweld in?

Who is doing the work?

Why the cam change?

Were they dialled in extensively last tune?

Why not just chuck some chemiweld in?

Jez will be doing the work.

Cams were dialled for a more even result, top and bottom

I believe Chemiweld had already been used, but that is only a guess

If I did change the CR . probably go 9:1

But I will not make any decision until it is pulled down and the problem found and go from there once I find out the initial problem :(

If you're happy with everything else then why not just resolve the head gasket issue?

Who said it was a head gasket, hope you are right, I tend to always think the worse and anything less is always a better outcome :)

Not going to say anything until the problem is found and fixed, I will go from there but while the car is in the shop might do a couple of tweaks.

Car goes in 12th of next month :rolleyes:

I will not bore you blokes until I have some results and poke the new Dyno Graph up

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

hmm I was just thinking about this thread the other day.

cracked block would be a bad outcome, but it doesn't really reflect on any shop involved in the build, its more just bad luck. You were pushing a mile of power through a standard wall block and it's not unheard of.

I am amazed sometimes on this thread.

At first the water lose was on a low boost run in tune and limited to 5000rpm, this was in March this year.

This water situation started from the first day of the build, it was not noticeable at first as I was checking the radiator, cold in the mornings and not the overflow, once the overflow emptied then it was noticeable from the radiator. I have always checked from the radiator so I knew exactly how much water was being used, I used a measuring cup.

The amount used on different driving situations was and is the same from day one as it was when we found the water in the oil.

Yet the oil still looked clean on the stick , not as you would expect ?

Edward lee now crd?

If I am not mistaken they said they tak no responsibility for any issues after Jez touched it. Therefor the only way you will have a chance at getting them to fork up for the new repairs is by taking them to court.

Or am I mistaken

I took them to NCAT, a tribunal were you can negotiate and come to a mutual agreement, I sat at home on the phone during this procedure. he was just a smart arse and told me to fark off, I didn't!

This situation is early days and the motor has to be checked , I am sure it can be worked out, until then it is just another bump in the road.

Some blokes should put themselves in the other persons shoes before posting, think about what you would do in the same situation , roll over like a dog , yeah sure ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...