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Oil Restrictors ?

Wyn

By Wyn,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
Posted

The motor I've received looks like they've been removed, so can someone confirm 100% if the 2 factory 2mm oil restrictors in the upper face of the block have any sort of check valve in or below them to stop the oil from flowing back when the motor is turned off?

Are the restrictors just pressed into empty oil way feeds with nothing below them?

One site says yes and must not be removed, but am also told nothing below them so no problem if removed and replaced?

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iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

No Czech valve.

Some people take out factory ones and tap in new ones. Others leave factory ones in and just hit new ones in over standard ones.

I left factory in and just hit my new (1.2mm and blank) ones into place. No oiling issues at all.

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iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Blanked rear. Stock RB30E pump shimmed. Neo head. Fuel cell foam in both cam covers and enlarged drains.

I do not get a single drop of oil out of my cam covers. Not even an oily film inside the hose. That includes 7krpm track sessions.

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AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

So does it not make the top end run a bit dry when on idle and cruise considering stock is 2mm, in another thread someone mentioned after blanking the rear they developed a noise which might of been from it running a bit dry at the back, but im not sure that's enough evidence having only one person out of probably alot who havn't had issues.

Edited by AngryRB
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Wyn Contributor

Wyn

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Posted

XK, How does the 2.6 get away with only the one feed and the other blanked ?

Angry, From what I gather those running hydraulic lifters (GTST head) need to retain a larger oil feed to keep the lifters pumped.

A Neo being solid lifters doesn't require as much, aka RB26 style feed with one blanked

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GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have an RB30 with Nitto pump and use 2 x 1mm restrictors, no blank, by blanking one off you creat a air pocket under it

With the 26 head used, the 26 block has the rear one plugged factory so on 30 blocks using the 26 head you plug the rear one, Nissan sell the solid plug for around $5.

I never put the new restricor over the old one on a rebuild, in most cases the engine may have a history of a spun bearing, crud collects under the factory restictor so i run a self tapped screw into it and used a shifter under the head of the screw and knock it out so i can clean under the stock restrictor.

You would be surprised how much crap is under it.

photo(21)

Edited by GTRPSI
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Phat_33R Newbie

Phat_33R

Posted
Posted

Depends on pump and use

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front
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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front

Forget the rear "drain" on the head - waste of time, money and space.

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