Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wondering if these endlinks are worth their money as opposed to the supplied somewhat crude looking endlinks?

(It's for an adjustable rear end swaybar on an R33 GTST)

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109&sq=12993

Cheers

Supplied endlinks

post-33912-0-46789500-1443372802_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

Are they worth the money? Possibly not, depending on how much value you place on money more than any other consideration. If you asked the question "do they do anything?" then the obvious answer is, yes. They are like any other solid joint. They don't allow any slip before transmitting the forces to the suspension component. The reaction of the bar to cornering loads is sharper, quicker. Better. Worth the money? Probably. I haven't been able to justify buying them to myself yet.

The HD ball link is a lot nicer and more durable than the horrible loop style arrangement.

If you purchase a Whiteline front and rear bar kit for the R and S chassis cars now; they actually include the HD ball links.

They also deal much better with angular misalignment than the loop style ones; as they often just pop the bush out of the eyelet.

I can supply these for a pretty decent price if you're interested; shoot me a PM.

urrrgh...those whiteline ones are like a lot of their stuff, overpriced for what they are.

Hardrace are good gear

http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_28_687&product_id=180

fair enough...but the Hardrace ones are half the price of the whiteline ones, what's your definition of expensive?

Yes, you're right .. the Whitlines are very pricey and don''t look that convincing.

I also found these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-NISSAN-SUNNY-N14-1990-1994-REAR-BACK-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-/130864103104?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item1e781bbec0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-1991-1997-FRONT-PAIR-STABILISER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-x-2-/291282784503?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item43d1ce90f7

But am unsure what dimensions (length) I need

Edited by Torques

I think you're mistaking the pictures of the basic Whiteline ones that come with the bars and the uprated Whiteline ones that cost some coin.

Hmmm .. aren't these the ones?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KLC109.JPG

They look a bit skimpy at the connecting link (the straight part) but maybe I'm wrong.

About AUD 150 in the UK and that is after a 10% discount :(

Edited by Torques

Funny you should mention that, i have heard vague rumours of them breaking. Not enough to make a "thing" of, but, just that i had read that a few times before so could be something to it.

I mean for the price it should be top notch quality really ... it's a lot of money, almost what I paid for the sway bar itself

Funny you should mention that, i have heard vague rumours of them breaking. Not enough to make a "thing" of, but, just that i had read that a few times before so could be something to it.

I think they only look skinny in the middle because the ends are so bulky. I mean, face it, they don't look like they are made of smaller material in the middle than any normal end link. That's got to be ~8mm threaded rod at the connection there.

The connecting threads are M10.

The only "Failures" I've seen are the result of people not tightening the locking nuts on the threaded section or on the aluminium "Turnbuckle" section; which allows the tread to fret, and eventually fail.

OK, thanks ..

Would anyone know how much 'preload' there is on these bars?

I mean how much do I have to adjust the length of the connecting links?

(with the car on the ground)

The connecting threads are M10.

The only "Failures" I've seen are the result of people not tightening the locking nuts on the threaded section or on the aluminium "Turnbuckle" section; which allows the tread to fret, and eventually fail.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, sorry I didn't made my question clear enough.

I was concerned about the length adjustment of the end-links.

There's no such thing as "pre-load". With the car on a level surface there are no forces acting on an ARB.

I guess the best (most centralised) adjustment will depend on your ride height. Realistically the setting you're looking for will be to ensure it doesn't bind/hit anything at your max bump or droop likely to be experienced.

The other consideration is that you might tweak the length of the links depending on which hole you have the bar set to. Probably only talking ~1 thread adjustment there though!

I bought a set of the "expensive" Whiteline ones off Dale because the ones supplied with the bar sat at a bit of an awkward angle. They have withstood a hammering on the track with the weight of my 1800kg Stagea on slicks being thrown into corners so I don't think they are too fragile...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...