Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Owners Past And Present, I Want Your Thoughts And Opinions About Some Things


Recommended Posts

Muppets. A std Rb20 will make 270-280rwkws all day with a smart bolt on turbo on 98-100. Throw E85 at it and you can make 300rwkws reliably with 180rwkws at 4,000rpm a d about 18psi at 4,200 rpm.

Some want more and thats cool. But 270rwkws makes for a perfectly drivable and powerful/fast car.

Its no RB30 but perfectly drivable, usable and easy....AND reliable. It even runs low 12s in complete street trim.

  • Like 1

Muppets. A std Rb20 will make 270-280rwkws all day with a smart bolt on turbo on 98-100. Throw E85 at it and you can make 300rwkws reliably with 180rwkws at 4,000rpm a d about 18psi at 4,200 rpm.

Some want more and thats cool. But 270rwkws makes for a perfectly drivable and powerful/fast car.

Its no RB30 but perfectly drivable, usable and easy....AND reliable. It even runs low 12s in complete street trim.

Hello Roy,

I was reading some old post about rb20's and I came across some of your inputs, you mention that you

"I dont know Mafia. I would have spent 6k on my RB20 with ecu, injectors, fuel pump, turbo and manifold and tuning....would do some things differently if I did it all again but 50,000kms in a std engine making between 235-275rwkws and plenty of track work means I dont think its been a waste if money. Hell I cant think of any rwd cars be it RB25, SR20 etc rhat us as quick as my RB20 at Sandown which is pretty much a hp track...so cant be too bad a thing

General rule is if you go bigger RB you have to expect the gearbox will be a problem much sooner. So add gearbox, tailshaft... it all adds up. Coolant, oils new water pump and belrs etc...do it once, do it right and it costs money. So many people talk about how cheap they can do things and not sure its sound advice to people who are spending money at a mechanics as they may not have know how, space, time or a combination of

Posted 18 July 2011 - 05:27 AM "

So I believe that I can get a good fast non big laggy car with a RB20.

The question I have now is what turbo, Ive asked but I keep getting different suggestions and don't know which one is really good. What do you think of the ones suggested in this post to reach the power you said is is good?

I read about the TDO6 but it seems that is a turbo that kicks in late in the RPM range. What turbo are you(were you) using on your RB20?

Also does changing the exhaust manifold matter?

Edited by yoshiii335

Have to do something soon, this boost up tune with the RB25 turbo doesnt seem to be doing anything. Got dusted by a RX7 tonight, but I think he was super tuned any way. Wasnt trying to race. He thought he was racing me. I was just driving. But after he took off and was ahead, I said what the heck and tried to catch up to him to see how my car is.

Oh for god's sake Yoshi.

The reason for the trollbot comment was that regardless of what information you are given you always come back 2 months later asking the exact same questions and hoping that somehow you can have a 300rwkW RB20 that makes boost from 2500rpm. We keep telling you that you can't have that, that you can't even have close to that. But you keep on banging away. If I were to design a trollbot for a forum like this one, that is how I would make it behave.

Bow Roy has a very very very nice R32. His RB20 is very well developed and make excellent power. The car is also extensively improved everywhere else, which helps to explain why it is so fast on the track. Ignoring that last part, I am damn sure that you would find his engine "laggy" by your definitions. There is no way you can make the power Roy makes without the boost threshold being quite a lot higher than stock.

Let me make something very clear. I like RB20s. I had one for years. If I was building my car for track I might consider keeping the 20 and build it appropriately. But for a street engine there is ABSOLUTELY NO REPLACEMENT FOR MORE CAPACITY if you want it to drive nicely. Having some acceleration available before boost comes on is a bloody good thing. Having the power go from nothing (and I mean damn near nothing for an unboosted RB20) to f**kinwoosh lots when the boost arrives at 4800rpm is no recipe for grip and accel on the road. This is why we keep telling you to go RB25. It is the only way you are going to get close to what you are asking for. It doesn't matter that you think it should be possible to do it with the 20 if you actually cannot.

  • Like 2

Oh for god's sake Yoshi.

The reason for the trollbot comment was that regardless of what information you are given you always come back 2 months later asking the exact same questions and hoping that somehow you can have a 300rwkW RB20 that makes boost from 2500rpm. We keep telling you that you can't have that, that you can't even have close to that. But you keep on banging away. If I were to design a trollbot for a forum like this one, that is how I would make it behave.

Bow Roy has a very very very nice R32. His RB20 is very well developed and make excellent power. The car is also extensively improved everywhere else, which helps to explain why it is so fast on the track. Ignoring that last part, I am damn sure that you would find his engine "laggy" by your definitions. There is no way you can make the power Roy makes without the boost threshold being quite a lot higher than stock.

Let me make something very clear. I like RB20s. I had one for years. If I was building my car for track I might consider keeping the 20 and build it appropriately. But for a street engine there is ABSOLUTELY NO REPLACEMENT FOR MORE CAPACITY if you want it to drive nicely. Having some acceleration available before boost comes on is a bloody good thing. Having the power go from nothing (and I mean damn near nothing for an unboosted RB20) to f**kinwoosh lots when the boost arrives at 4800rpm is no recipe for grip and accel on the road. This is why we keep telling you to go RB25. It is the only way you are going to get close to what you are asking for. It doesn't matter that you think it should be possible to do it with the 20 if you actually cannot.

I understand that, in fact I said thank you to everyone who has offered to answer questions. Within that if I had any other questions, I would ask. I haven't asked anything new. I was told about what to expect. So I was told what to do and what not to do. Within that I asked follow up questions. So if it is wrong for me to make sure I have all the details that will help me on my way well don't answer, easy. My questions have been mostly answered. I know what to expect. So I am going to go with the 20 for now. I don't want to ask this question any more, so I want to know specifics. I read the different pages on what people use. But it seems no one has gotten it right. Roy told me some things, I happen to read some of his old post by coincidence and so I asked some questions specifically about what he told me and what I read in his posts, isn't that what most of you tell people the moment they have a question READ THE POST READ THE POSTs. I READ the post and had questions. You don't know what I am able to have done to my car. If someone has done something that I am trying to do, I am going to ask for specifics, that's how people learn. Too many of you expect people to shut up automatically as soon as the word RB 20 is mentioned. Also some of you have a bad habit of attacking posters the moment they asked a questions. FYI, the posts don't all have the answers people are looking for. Also not everyone is going to want to read through dozens and hundreds of pages when a simple answer and explanation that people want can easily be given. This site has a bad reputation amongst other people outside of Australia of not being the friendliest place to ask questions. Some people question peoples actually experiences and knowledge here. But I come here because I trust that someone actually knows what they are talking about and will help the fellow car man without being dicks. Too many chips on peoples shoulders here.

Thanks for everyone who is trying to help.

Oh yeah, as before no one knows what parts or things I have access to right now. Not everyone can just go and put a RB25 engine or whatever in their car. Some people have things they want to do. Advice is good sometimes, but don't push it on people or make them feel like crap because they dare to do something they want to try.

I have read other posts where this is done to people.

Anyway, my main big thing now is choosing the turbo that will get me to my goal I want until I can get the GTR or somehow I come into possession of a cheap good running RB25. I have searched and from what I have read, the 2530 is not what I am looking for because it doesn't seem to be able to reach the 360-380 hp goal I am looking for. The other ones mentioned in this post I haven't really found any info about them. Oh yeah, the turbos available now are somewhat better than the ones back then. Most of the posts are old here.

I am looking at the one the turbos that was dicussed in this post.

I have done exactly what I said I would do with my car in steps. I put a boost controller in. Drove it. Put a rb25 det turbo in, have a boost up tuned computer for it, driving it. I am now ready for the next step. I am not going to go over 380 in my car because I understand that higher means more lag unless a good way to reduce that lag at high hp is made. If I was going for a track car, I wouldn't care. So I know if I want 400 hp or more I should go RB25 or GTR to have a good street car.

So if its not too much to ask to close this post out, out of the turbos suggested in this post, which one would probably be the best to invest in that will actually be good? The TD06 I know makes lots of power but I know also that it comes on to boost later on the RB20.

The Hypergear hiflow like you were told a year ago.

Ok, I looked into that but Hyper Gear suggested a different one than that. I forget the exact one.

I will contact them again and ask them again. Thank you

I appreciate everyones help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...