Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well its summer weather already. Went to drive my car and damn near burned my hand on the gear knob. I currently have a Trust gearknob in the car, all metal construction. It gets so hot I cannot touch the gear knob.

Anybody able to recommend a good piece to put on the thing? I don't want the stock one as I have one already and the heat caused the glue to soften up and you get black shit all over your hands when you handle it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460128-suggestion-on-gear-knob/
Share on other sites

Nismo Duracon; end thread.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-BLACK-Gear-Knob-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-Silvia-S13-S14-S15-180SX-350Z-370Z-/191703800534

The other I've used, is the MOMO Anatomico; really nice shape in your hand, and a subtle factory style look.
I used the short version without the bottom collar, and modified the boot to fit right up against the leather.

12068635_10153679251067392_8917058890074

Do titanium and aluminium knobs heat up as much as stainless knobs? I read somewhere that they don't but the nature of metal is it either retains heat in hot areas or retains cold. Its a super conductor.

The Tomei gear knob looks great but the thing I love about this Trust gear knob is the weight behind it.

I saw a few nice looking knobs out there but the things are universal fitments, press down and use grub screws. This just seems shit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...