Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AAAARRRRRGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Just got my new Greddy BOV FV.

This came out of it.

Really rough inside, cut your finger easy.

Valve is very very hard to push in by hand, even when sucking on it.

Retainer ring on the bottom isn't gold.

Silicone tube doesn't have Greddy logo on it and is smaller OD.

You know what I'm getting at.

Seller more than happy to refund and pay for return postage.

Phew.

Ok Scotty, I'll wait for the tune mate.

post-25026-0-99050300-1449634334_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-38863800-1449634350_thumb.jpg

post-25026-0-09008700-1449634365_thumb.jpg

AAAARRRRRGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Just got my new Greddy BOV FV.

This came out of it.

Really rough inside, cut your finger easy.

Valve is very very hard to push in by hand, even when sucking on it.

Retainer ring on the bottom isn't gold.

Silicone tube doesn't have Greddy logo on it and is smaller OD.

You know what I'm getting at.

Seller more than happy to refund and pay for return postage.

Phew.

Ok Scotty, I'll wait for the tune mate.

is it a genuine Greddy? how much did you pay for that? at least, it should not cut your finger.

you need go for Greddy soft spring, plumb back adapter also. but you can't get rid of pigeon sound unless you tune the car.

is it a genuine Greddy? how much did you pay for that? at least, it should not cut your finger.

you need go for Greddy soft spring, plumb back adapter also. but you can't get rid of pigeon sound unless you tune the car.

I'm pretty sure it's a fake.

No way I'm fitting it with metal shards coming off.

Greddy website has a warning on the RS models.

This FV has all the same things wrong/ different as in the pictures.

Paid $97 including Nissan adapter plate.

Others are selling it for $360

Don't say it

Scott. What's your take on bov vs no bov for response and making boost?

I've tried a few, standard, blitz etc. and have found they all leak and in return partial to half throttle suffers.

The stock BOV with a grubscrew was ok, bit of hesitation as you come off boost to a cruise.

Once I changed to the Turbosmart Kompact plumback I never had an issue.

Personally I only use a BOV blanking for diagnosing faults, I would never block it off for any high boost runs, there is a good chance you will twist the turbine shaft or damage the compressor wheel.

We have run no BOV on all our non Borg Warner EFR equipped race cars with no adverse effects. Having said that I won't do it on my stag as the compressor stall sound is so loud it's embarrassing.

Blocking the OEM bleed hole makes surge worse but improves spool, so you have to make your choice.

Sounds like the Kompact is a good unit.

Oh, update on my 33gtr BOV. It improved surge due to a softer spring but it bleed air due to intake oscillations....which is what I expect causes the surge. I moved the BOV sense line to the fuel reg output further up the plenum which helped a little bit.

Running a modded Rb25 BOV atm. Seems the same as the M35

Edited by BoostdR

The stock BOV with a grubscrew was ok, bit of hesitation as you come off boost to a cruise.

Once I changed to the Turbosmart Kompact plumback I never had an issue.

Personally I only use a BOV blanking for diagnosing faults, I would never block it off for any high boost runs, there is a good chance you will twist the turbine shaft or damage the compressor wheel.

Thanks. I'm a bit worried about the turbo at high boost. But not willing to sacrifice my cruising response for it.

The stock BOV with a grubscrew was ok, bit of hesitation as you come off boost to a cruise.

Once I changed to the Turbosmart Kompact plumback I never had an issue.

Personally I only use a BOV blanking for diagnosing faults, I would never block it off for any high boost runs, there is a good chance you will twist the turbine shaft or damage the compressor wheel.

Are you using the normal one designed for Nissan not the dual port Scotty? I thought everyone was having issues due to it not being adjustable? Or did you get a softer spring or is it a non issue because yours is tuned?

Yes Phil, you can buy different springs for them, but I bolted mine straight on and it worked well out of the box. I guess the tune is compensated nicely, although I suspect it has a lot to do with the design of the 3 inch intake too and how the return is plumbed back in.

I couldn't decide which colour to go for so I've decided to keep both and twin turbo the VQ25DET

That should get rid of the shudder

Australias first twin turbo M35

They aren't turbos. ?
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...