Standard Rb30 Freshen Up Advice

[Ad's]

At page 54 in the oil control thread and want to know if im heading in the right direction or not. Not going to make it another one of those threads as I have searched for weeks and this is what i have come up with.

Long story short I pulled apart a running rb30 to freshen it all up and to have it ready when my 25 grenades itself, main reason was to do the oiling mods and freshen it up for boost.

Block is currently at the mechinests getting checked out, acid bathed, honed, decked and having a wider oil pump drive fitted and grub screwed.

Bottom end:

Cleaned and inspected pistons/rods

Drilled out oil returns to 9.5mm

Die grind rear galliries to suit headgasket

Reassemble with new rings bearings. ACL race series?

Larger/baffled sump

Head to sump drain/vent?

ARP head studs

ARP rod bolts

2x1.3mm restrictors-keeping vct and N1 pump

RB25 head - VCT:

Strip, clean, inspect, skim and new valve steam seals

Drill out oil returns to suit block - 9.5mm

Rear head drain fitting

External vct mod

Fuel cell foam in covers?

Meat added to the head around the vct

Old engine onto new:

N1 oil pump - With stronger gears

N1 water pump

TD06 20G 10cm - Small but be super responsive holding back top end power?

Bran new RB25 balancer

Vented catch can with -10 fittings

Poor man pays twice and I have learn't that so im not going to skimp out, but at the same time I want to keep a lid on how much I spend otherwise I would have ordered a 3.4ltr stroker and gone all out. Car is/will be mainly street driven with the odd track day and hill climb.

Thoughts?

Thanks

[AngryRB]

Dont forget to also add meat around that water gallery right next to the VCT

[Shoota_77]

Spend a few hours enlarging all of the oil returns in the head. They can be opened up massively to aid oil return to the sump.

[Ad's]

That is on my list of to do's when its time. The ones in the block I have enlarged to 9.5mm but I may drill them out to 10mm and ill do the same to the head.

[Shoota_77]

You need to also open up the main oil returns which aren't the drilled passages, they're the openings at each end of the block.

[KiwiRS4T]

Forget the "head drain". Use stock water pump not N1. I presume your machinist know the crank collar is a shrink fit and the grubscrews are just a back up. If you can get it done for a reasonable price get the whole assembly balanced from harmonic balancer to clutch. Otherwise limit it to 7000

[Ad's]

Thanks guys. I have told the machinist to go ahead and fit the grub screws as piece of mind (so I can sleep at night)

Issue with balancing the bottom end is everything that will be swapped over is in the car currently. Could wait and build it when I rip it apart but it defeats the purpose, been mainly street driven I wont be screaming down the road so most of my changes will be under 5000.

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks guys. I have told the machinist to go ahead and fit the grub screws as piece of mind (so I can sleep at night)

Issue with balancing the bottom end is everything that will be swapped over is in the car currently. Could wait and build it when I rip it apart but it defeats the purpose, been mainly street driven I wont be screaming down the road so most of my changes will be under 5000.

Mine wasn't balanced - limit of 7000 has been ok for about 30,000km including track days.

[GTRPSI]

Add a couple of dash fitting up high on the sump above the oil level on the drivers side and run them up to a catch can.

Give the blowby a way out of the sump so to minimize the amount going up to the cover breathers.

This also assists oil traveling back down as it does not need to fight the air going up.

[Ad's]

I am thinking of re doing my catch can so should i have the oil drained back to the sump from the can even on E85? Making sure it has baffles and separaters would be the best option? Any off the shelf catch cans that work great? Or should i opt for a custom jobbie?

[Ad's]

Ok so got a call saying the block needs to be opened up 20 thou so I will need different sized pistons and rings. Wanted to keep costs down a little but guess I may aswell throw some forgie slugs in there. What are people using and are happy with?

Also thinking of swapping it over to a neo rb25 head so should i be looking at flat top pistons?

Thanks guys

[Kiwi r32]

hey man, im running a rb26/30 with stock bottom end. stock head. stock cast rb30e pistons with a set of mahle piston rings to suit.
The usual arp head studs, rod bolts etc throughout. 380kw @ flywheel @ 13psi comfortably

Just my personal opinion but if your trying to keep costs down just keep it standard internally. from what you said earlier sounds like youv taken the time to read all the guides and are going about it the right way fixing the factory oiling issues etc

They make plently of power with standard gear, unless your aiming for more then 600hp id just get some standard rb30 pistons.

Just my opinion

Goodluck!

[Ad's]

I have had a few issues come out once I took it to the machinists, turns out she needs to be opened up 20 thou witch means new pistons. So I ordered some CP flat top pistons with rings and I will also be getting some sort of forged rods too, the idea of a standard rebuild has now gone out the window...

Everything else above I will still be going ahead with but I may change over to a neo head