Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, say if he plans to put in a proper diff, a sequential box, a dirty 30, full brembos all round.... then no real diff if it's GTS-t OR GTS... actually he benefits... doesn't have that homo HICAS subframe

How much would I be looking at roughly to do an engine swap? + upgrading brakes etc?

Thanks to all those who actually replied maturely by the way! I've only just bought this car so I would love to build it up and get to learn things along the way.

& no I shouldn't have just bought a project car than because I just returned to Australia after living in Europe for a couple of years.

In the mean time instead of a turbo, is there really any other way to give the car a bit more power? The car has a K&N pod filter, heavy duty clutch, 3.5inch catback exhaust (which is way too loud) + a lot more I can't remember atm!

Rough figures?

Engine 1.5k

Gearbox 1k

Diff 300

Brakes 300

Hubs 300

Other stuff, eg intercooler fuel pump extra bits involved that everyone forgets 500-1000

So 4-4.5k.

Selling your gts and buying a gtst will not cost you that much

Rough figures?

Engine 1.5k

Gearbox 1k

Diff 300

Brakes 300

Hubs 300

Other stuff, eg intercooler fuel pump extra bits involved that everyone forgets 500-1000

So 4-4.5k.

Selling your gts and buying a gtst will not cost you that much

Thanks for that man! Seems like selling and buying a gtst is the best way to go about it, cheers!

Or do you just enjoy being a dickhead throughout the day on the internet?

well in fairness, we ALL enjoy doing that, I know I certainly do.

.

In the mean time instead of a turbo, is there really any other way to give the car a bit more power?

Ben I can't believe you didn't say NOSSSSSS!!

but seriously you could mess about with little mods but by comparison to going turbo, not a lot that will give you dollar-value HP.

There is a lot cynicism in this forum on the topic of N/A power-ups, probably due to the number of young(ish) guys who have just bought an N/A Skyline and then come on this forum looking for a cheap power-up. They nearly always seem to think there is a magic solution that we all know but have chosen to keep secret. Sadly, there is no magic :-(

My axiom when it comes to modifying cars, learned through hard experience is:

Performance, reliable, inexpensive ... pick any one-and-a-half.

It is best to gather enough resources (ie knowledge, experience, parts/money) to do it once and do it right. Any other way will lead to much sadness.

Curb your natural enthusiasm, enjoy what you have got, and research the possible mods to make it better..

One day you too will have a mega Skyline like the rest of us, which makes your friends envious and which gets your girlfriend/boyfriend/farm-animal all hot and bothered (hey, I'm not judging), and life will be good. Dinks!

Edited by david.r34.gtt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What type of track driving will you be doing?  Do you have a set of class rules you need to abide by that will limit your rim / tyre width?
    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
    • hahahaa @GTSBoy that is my last resort. Like use a cardboard and cut it using the indicator as a reference. But I was winging my luck to see anyone had a spare bumper because drawing the outline off the hole is always easier and less chance of mucking it up
×
×
  • Create New...