Head Gasket Install

[AngryRB]

So i had a go at bolting a neo head down onto the RB30 bottom and theres couple of possible issues which im not 100% sure if will be a problem..

so brief run down

- sprayed copper spray on the headgasket but didnt torque it down for about 2hrs but it was installed with head sitting on it.

- kept getting a few oil drops leaking out the drains in the head so maybe have leaked a bit onto the head gasket on one side.

- torqued it down in 3 steps 25nm, 50nm, 80nm

So is this dodgey or all good?

[XKLABA]

What head gasket ?

Why copper spray instead of Hylomar spray ?

Sounds all good but won't know for sure till you start it

[AngryRB]

its all good, i took the head back off few hours ago and looks like it was gonna leak cause around those drain holes it was bit oily and clean so the gasket there had not stuck to the block and head like everywhere else....

Was using a OEM RB26 gasket, but i just purchased a RB30 OEM gasket to try again..

Have used copper spray on an LS1 and an ecotec with success so i guess just following that run of successes, the copper must mix into the gasket cause i cant see much copper after taking the gasket off, was mostly sealing though cause i couldnt get the head back off without prying it with a bar...

Edited October 14, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

Have to make sure the oil doesn't drip down onto the gasket thought while im trying to fit and torque it down, thinking of washing the head with diesel and blowing out with compressed air, hopefully that will work....

Is Hylomar Spray the best thing to use?

[GTRPSI]

I use copper spray on copper head gaskets, torque down when tacky.

Hylomar when reusing a old MLS of if the heads not skimmed.

New MLS gets nothing on a skimmed head.

No oil, everything to be spotlessly clean, if you have oil leaking out of the head clean it out first with a air compressor blower.

[AngryRB]

biggest problem at the moment is an endless drip, shouldn't be this hard to bolt a head down... lol..

I used some plasti guage to check the head and block are straight and all good but when lifting head back off there was a good film of oil left after blowing it all passages with compressed air etc.. so its playing games with me .. must be some hidden oil gallery/drain in the center that has a pool, kind of like a spring in the ground lol...

On a positve note though, the gasket and copper spray had stuck to the head and block pretty well, took ages to clean block and head apart from the bit round these gallaries..

Edited October 15, 2015 by AngryRB

[r32-25t]

Are you using new head bolts?

[AngryRB]

Yeah new ARP studs and nuts, should the one washer be enough that they supply as it seemed to tension up alright..

[AngryRB]

To answer my question, a second washer is a good idea cause the stud is longer than the stock RB25 bolt.... I've assembled it dry and without copper spray so we'll see how that goes...

[AngryRB]

discovered that one washer is unaccounted for, worst feeling cause if its in the head somewhere its not showing itself, i've used a magnet on the end of a tube , blow compressed air , turn it upside down and search everywhere but its either not there or its hiding lower in the head???

Must be some kind of hidden chamber in the middle of the head?? can i pull the large welsh plugs out from the rear and front and gain access from there to rule this out..???

Edited October 18, 2015 by AngryRB

[SkudR33]

discovered that one washer is unaccounted for, worst feeling cause if its in the head somewhere its not showing itself, i've used a magnet on the end of a tube , blow compressed air , turn it upside down and search everywhere but its either not there or its hiding lower in the head???

Must be some kind of hidden chamber in the middle of the head?? can i pull the large welsh plugs out from the rear and front and gain access from there to rule this out..???

Dude I had a similar problem... The washers fell down into the valve Spring seat and they are a bitch to get out... You need one of them inspection cameras to find out if it's fallen in there! I would not risk it because I reckon it will f**k your shit up...

[AngryRB]

yeah i think ill try to get one of those camera's, the washer is a decent size, id say about 18mm diameter

how many times can you remove an ARP stud and tension them back up, done it twice now

[GTRPSI]

The more times the better as long as the studs never been overtightened. (therefore over stressed and weakened)

Each time you wear the nut and washer it smooths it out better, however if using ARP lube it makes not much difference as its that good as a lubricant.

[AngryRB]

Pulled the large welsh plug off the back of the head, thats just for coolant so thats no good, am looking at the inspection camera's but wondering if they will be able to get down into the lower drain holes before i spend $$

Does anyone know if you can use this camera to look into the head from under the block with the sump off? Engine builder says it will flush out to the sump and not to worry bout it but wanna make sure..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Autel-MV400-8-5mm-Car-Digital-Borescope-Videoscope-Inspection-Camera/251177013261?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3Dd6257c12f3fd49f7b5d3af24c973cbe0%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D290842847189

Edited October 21, 2015 by AngryRB

[AngryRB]

looks like im on my own here, thanks for all above help, we'll see if she blows on the dyno, all thanks will go to sau lol......

will try tilting it on an angle with the engine hoist and flushing/compressed air to see if a washer comes out or not, apart from that its all a toss of the coin... stay tuned or not...

[SkudR33]

looks like im on my own here, thanks for all above help, we'll see if she blows on the dyno, all thanks will go to sau lol......

will try tilting it on an angle with the engine hoist and flushing/compressed air to see if a washer comes out or not, apart from that its all a toss of the coin... stay tuned or not...

Good luck with it!