Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah definitely not lol i'm not that silly.i'll take the fuel line off and see if anything comes out. i'll probably just change the fuel lines but im not sure how to go about that.where would i get the hoses from etc. i assume i follow the fuel line back from the fuel rail and it go's under the car back to the fuel tank ? i'll google it tomorrow just having a guess for now

i just thought of a use for the fuel injection cleaner.if i disconnect the fuel line at the rail would it clean the lines and just spray out at from the fuel line ?

lol..anyways. im going down to supercheap auto soon to pick up some oil. should i get some fuel lines while im there ?

i had a look on there site.

this is what i found http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/RSP-EFI-Fuel-Hose-5-16-Per-Metre.aspx?pid=104897#Recommendations

how many metres would i need?

Getting the car to run, and getting the car to run right are completely different worlds, too.

Even if this car was running, and SEEMING to be okay, you'd still absolutely get it checked to confirm what seems okay, is actually okay.

As someone said, fuel, air, spark. It's gonna be a guessing game as to which part of the system isn't functioning but every system is pretty much testable.

As ben said... Car off the road for 3 years, and NOW super impatient to get it going?

3 years.

^This.

If I had a GTR sitting on my lawn, i wouldn't of been able to let it sit for 5 mins without trying to work out what was wrong with it. You've had the patience of an ignorant donkey for 3 farken years, a little longer isn't gonna kill you. You should really try and get someone with some sort of car knowledge to give you a hand b4 you make a shit situation even shitter. Good luck with it, I hope u get it running without too much hassle. Just being real.

impatient might of been the wrong word.over excited is more the wording i should of used. im just excited to get it going and i really think it wont be too much trouble.i think the battery was a main culprit for it not starting. fully charged it wasnt even at 12 volts. its sitting just above 10 on the gauge in the car.and it drops quite a bit when cranking. i tried cranking it earlier with the jumper charger battery ( with the fuel plug disconnected ) and it sounded like it wanted to start even with no fuel supply. didnt have time to check for spark and test the fuel injector plugs with a noid light,will do on sunday though. next step is to get a good battery!! and a new air filter since the one on there is filthy and wouldnt be helping.

next week im going to flush the petrol tank and with some injector cleaner but take of the fuel line at the rail so it doesnt go through the injectors, then i'll put on the fuel filter, change the oil and oil filter. chuck in some spark plugs etc. and try crank it. with fresh petrol obviously. then ill check if its getting fuel pressure.

also have a basemap on the ecu since i updated the firmware on it with the laptop,had a gtr basemap on there. also noticed when the key is turned to on that that tacho go's up in rpm then drops down. feature of the ecu? lol never seen it do that before.

really don't think its going to be that hard to get it started.

i'll take some videos of each step i take too( testing spark etc.)

also checked all the fuses,in the engine bay and under the dash and all were good.i thought there was fuses in the boot but i could not find them at all !!

Going to buy a new battery this Sunday or Monday. Really appreciate some input. I've been looking at some batteries but not sure which ones will fit since it needs small terminals. Best one I have found that will fit for sure is an optima yellow top D51R-T1D51R-T1 but is it really worth paying 225 dollars when it's only 450cca? Is it enough? I like to be on the safer side and get a slightly bigger one if possible. Let me know

im pretty sure thats the battery that i have now..and its shithouse lol its only 330cca .i would rather pay an extra $100 and get a good battery. i want one with a decent cca rating that will fit. i'll pop into battery world on monday but i want to get some ideas of good batteries and good prices for those batteries. dont want to pay more much then $200 if possible. $250 is the limit to spend on a battery

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...