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Trust me. It is big enough. Why have a mahoosive battery in your car? If you need to grind the starter until it is flat, then you actually want another battery and a set of jumper leads to bolster your capacity, rather than carrying around an extra 10kg of lead.

You will not need to spend $200 either. I just put a bigger (like 560cca) Century into our Subaru and it was only ~$180.

i put on a jumper leads and it made a difference.which is why i know i definitely need a new battery. and on the voltage gauge its only showing 10 volts and it drops when trying to start ( didnt watch it when i was cranking with the jumper leads , was in a rush) another thing i was thinking is maybe alternator is screwed or maybe bad wiring/grounding. but i'll try a new battery first since i need a new one anyway. i think i'll settle for the optima D51R-T1. been reading good things about them and alot of guys recommend it. its $225. not that bad really and it has the right size terminals etc.

450cca is enough i guess.was being abit paranoid spending that much and it not being good enough. i dont want to go century again just because i didnt have a good experience with the one i had and alot of people say they're cheap and not that great where as optima generally gets alot of praise tomorrow i'll be testing for spark and testing injector plugs.i'll make a video and chuck it on youtube for anyone actually interested lol

Id say your jumper leads are farked or your earth is bad.

Last year i tried my new jumper leads and got nothing, i had 2 neighbors pull out theirs and still got nothing, i went and picked up a home made set i built back in the early 80's from some old battery cable i had left over from a boot battery relocation and it started.

Tested all the first lot of cables again and they still didnt work.

You would be surprised how modern jumper leads are crap.....had me wondering how many people have been through this and ended up changing their starter motor thinking it was the culprit. :)

jumper cables were fine..was using a jumper battery charger kit. it was cranking over with that hooked up to the shit battery. without it the voltage dropped completely when trying to crank it and it didnt make a sound. so battery is stuffed ( charged it the day before too )

i've ordered my new battery. hopefully pick it up in a few day :D

was just having a little play around with the gtr testing to see if all the lights work etc.

noticed big drops in voltages when turning on lights,indicators etc. actually it killed the battery in 5 minutes. now i know the battery is shit, but it was fully charged. is it just the shit battery or something else cause the voltage fluctuation like bad wiring/earthing ? i wont have my new battery till Wednesday to check if its because of a shit battery. when i had the indicators on with the lights on aswell,the brake lights would dim,electric windows barely went back up .

hope its just a shit battery and not shitty wiring ;/

that's the exact answer i was hoping to hear lmao can't really test anything now untill battery arrives. was going to install my fpr but the screws threaded on the stock fpr . piece of shit screw driver !! know idea how im going to get that off. the fpr i got looks shit anyways i think i'll try for a refund :/

i mostly just got a fpr for the fuel pressure gauge to test fuel pressure if im honest :S i thought what the hell.

been sitting for 3 years cause i haven't had much work in that time. i had no idea what to do with it until i recently got sick of seeing it sitting there and started reading up on how to get it going.i wont be able to get it on the road until i've found a steady job but i have enough cash to get it started atleast.... unless its in worse shape then i thought but i feel positive about it..for now lol

I wouldn't trust the gauge on a cheap FPR to be better than +/-5psi. Almost total waste of time. Fuel pressure best measured with good quality gauge teed into rubber line before rail. Easy, accessible, takes 2 minutes, 3 extra inches of hose and 3 hose clamps.

i suppose so.

had a quick play around today before it started raining :( took the cas off and turned it to see if injectors were firing. all of them were but the 2nd and 5th injectors weren't as loud as the rest.not sure what that could mean but my battery is shit so i dont know if that would have anything to do with it. i took out only 3 spark plugs since it started raining and couldnt continue. only the first one had spark and the other 2 didn't do anything at all. all the spark plugs looked the same. coil packs look fine to me but i wouldnt know what a bad one would look like. so maybe bad coil packs ? also im not sure how well the igniter was grounded so i;ll check it properly tomorrow if its not raining. or might just wait till i get my new battery since it was killing the batter really quick from turning the cas.

so question for today is, what does it mean if 2 of the injectors were nowhere near as loud as the others ? shit battery have anything to do with it ?

and whats the go with the spark plugs ? coil packs stuffed? or spark plugs stuffed ? i have a multimeter now but im not really sure how to use it.i had a search on google but my attention span got the better of me

just had another quick play around but stopped cause the battery is sitting at the 6v on battery gauge. using the same coil pack and same spark plug that gave spark on the first cylinder ( or whatever cylinder is closest to cam gears) i tried the first 4 cylinders . still get spark on the first cylinder ( very faint ) and no spark on the other 3 after it. this was using the same coil pack and spark plug just swapping it to the other plugs. im pretty sure its just cause the battery is shit. but is there any other possible causes ? i would of tested the last 2 but didnt see the point since battery is shit.

im not doing anything with it now. i thought it would be ok to try with the jumper starter but that needs to be charged its self.

should get the new battery on Thursday then i'll test it properly,

how would i check the coil loom ? visually or use multimeter ?

how would i check the coil loom ? visually or use multimeter ?

Both. Take it out, inspect it. Make sure the wires are good. Make sure the pins in the connectors are in place, not pushed back, not corroded, broken, whatever. Test with multimeter for continuity from end to end of each wire, etc etc. Same with injector loom. By this stage you'll probably be at the point of doing a comprehensive dismantle of the coils and injectors for swap-arounds and/or cleaning anyway.

Search the forum for instructions on testing coils. Cleaning, sealing, etc.

Got my battery today. Much better now. I tested same coil pack and plug on each Plug and only first one fired.... Then I I out in the stock ecu and they all worked! So I guess I'll have to read about the vipec ecu to configure it.wont change spark plugs for now. Getting fuel now and going to see if fuel comes out from the fuel line. Do I disconnect it after the fuel filter?oh and I'll change the fuel filter while I'm at it

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