Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd drive it, but maybe avoid skids. Clearly there are currently sufficient bolts because the gearbox hasn't fallen off.

5 minutes on a hoist at a workshop with a bolt collection will have it checked and resolved.

I'd drive it, but maybe avoid skids.

My point was that Ben was advising to remove the only visible remaining bolt. I thought it was funny enough to remark that that might be the straw breaking the camel's back if you then went on to drive it to the bolt shop with that bolt out.

  • Like 1

Didn't really want to order a kit because i need them now but i might have to.

I'd drive it, but maybe avoid skids. Clearly there are currently sufficient bolts because the gearbox hasn't fallen off.

5 minutes on a hoist at a workshop with a bolt collection will have it checked and resolved.

Has been driven with the bolts missing for a while, unable to drive the car at the moment due to it being apart and unregoed but i was hoping someone might just know the specs so i could go down to a fastener place and buy the missing 3...

I'd drive it without those bolts

I'd do skids without those bolts.

Few bolts missing never mattered, it is hopefully fully bolted to the block.

I need to pass the pits so it needs all the bolts haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...