Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I purchased my car a while ago and was told it had a rebuild But now I'm curious.. I asked the workshop that did the work/invoice and they said no idea or its fake Yet it's dated from 2003 so it was a while ago Someone told me to check compression and cold plugs Compression will just tell me the health?? Which I know is good made 218rwkw on 15psi standard highflowed turbo. The cluster reads 126000ks with a body/interior to match the only thing that makes me think it has had a rebuild is the sump has been removed (see pics) What else should I look for without taking the head off.

post-105134-0-52757100-1445776191_thumb.jpeg

post-105134-0-22330700-1445776228_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460582-engine-rebuild-how-to-tell-25det/
Share on other sites

Curiosity killed the cat.

Are you saying that you have an invoice for the rebuild? Does it specify what work was done? And are you saying that the shop whose name is on the invoice say its a fake?

Your car is still going well 12 years later. Do a compression test and if all good find something else to worry about!

12 Years ago wouldn't matter much now as you don't know how its been treated since then.

Having the sump off could just be a bodgy fix it job

You could shove a camera down a spark plug hole but may not see what your looking for if oem pistons used.

Only thing you have seems like an old invoice the shop doesn't have any idea about.

Simply compression and leakdown test it, should give you the cylinder and valve seal condition of it.

Also note the cold and hot oil pressure for oil pump and bearing wear.

Other than that 2003 was a very long time ago.

It could have been the worlds best rebuild or even a brand new engine used but if the previous owner thrashed it, had a bad tune, ran cheap oil, didn't service it, leaned into it cold or drove it while it overheated, nothing but a rebuild will save it if it shows signs of wear.

Speaking of which i looked into a Toyota engines oil filler hole today with only 80,000Km on the clock and the whole inner surface was covered in crud from running it on cheap oil, service book was all stamped on time by a Toyota dealership too.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...