Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been offered some turbos, very close to -9 specs. This will be a on a 34.

-9 are as below and this reads comp to turbine.

Garrett 707160-9 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 42.4 - 53.85 62T 0.64

But what I was offered has 60mm comp wheel and a 53mm turbine wheel.

Bigger comp wheel would normally mean more power, but in the same size housing will that mean more response and more power or more response and less top end as it will choke out.

Likewise, the slightly smaller turbine wheel tells me a little less response, but flow better top end in the same housing.

Any guesses on what the characteristics will be?

Edited by ActionDan

My guess is that unless the blade design of both is identical then the aerodynamic differences of each wheel could be more significant than those tiny diameter differences. Also, no mention made of the minor diameters of the other wheels.....mileage may vary there too.

If aero design was otherwise the same, then I'd say that your impressions are pretty close to correct and it might take a very sensitive bum dyno to feel the difference.

That I can't comment on.

All I know is it will essentially be a 2560R core (and turbine wheel) with a .64 rear housing and a -5 comp wheel in my .53 Comp housing.

To me that all equates to a more responsive -5 but will less top end?

my input and thoughts, feel free to ignore :)

Get those turbos, sell them.. then convert to a single GTX3576 or even GTX3582 on a proper twin scroll manifold and a proper divided housing with either twin gates or merge both pulses all the way to a single 50mm gate or larger. Eventually all response and power hungry GT-R owners convert to a modern single turbo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Same result, hence I was trying the phone.

I also tried FB messenger for Chris personally as we're still connected from DECA days.

All sorted now, turbos will be here today or tomorrow, tuner will supply the Haltech.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...