Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb2530 Turbo Choice (again)

Ruthr33

By Ruthr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ruthr33 Enthusiast

Ruthr33

Posted
Posted

Hey peoples, I'll keep it simple

Got a rb25 t67 kinugawa 18psi bp98

Made 350hp at hubs.

Took it to the track and had a drift. I lived my dream.

The car is sitting in the garage and there's a rb30 block next to it.

I've only driven it once it was nice.

I'm gonna put the rb30 in there now cause I like spinning spanners.

What I'm after is less lag and more wheel spin.

It's just for the street now and I want an animal.

I'm looking at Garrett gt3076 .82

I'm not after hp, just spinning tyres.

What about gtx range? Or .63

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461078-rb2530-turbo-choice-again/
Share on other sites
Ke55pig Proficient

Ke55pig

Posted
Posted

Keep the t67 with a 30 bottom end it will be even more responsive.

I know my rb25 t67 all it does is spin wheels with basic 235 tyres

1 5000 on wheelspin

2 4500

3 4200

Thats jist footflat no clutching t67 are very agressive although i also made another 100 hp at 17 psi 450hp

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I would go with something similar to a GTX3582 with a 1.06 housing.. that 3.0L will spool anything with a VCT head.

Look at 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i heads.. it will give you a good idea, those motors will happily spool up a GTX3582 1.06 rear around 4k rpm and produce very linear torque and linear power.

A T67 would be too small.

Ruthr33 Enthusiast

Ruthr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From what I've read they spool 500rpm earlier on 3l.

So with the setup I have that would be a big enprovment.

Boosting 5000 1st 4500 second and 4200 third is like mine.

I think 3582 on 3l will be too much. I'm not after a drag car with peak power.

The way I'm looking at it is I made 350hp at the wheels with 2.5 and t67. If I were to up th cc to 3l and run a smaller turbo gt3076 .82, I could easily make 350hp but I'll be boosting at 3800 4000 in first. Am I on the rite track?

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

T67 is restrictive on the turbine side. For a 3L you are better off going for a GT3582 or equivalent, alternatively the 25G comp with TD06H turbine inside 10 CM housing.

Listen to Stao on this one.

I am running a TDO6H-25G 12cm on 30DET for track-only.

Had been running a GT3076 0.87 turbo.

Turbine restriction showed itself when tuning with the GT30, although it was a very sweet combination for road-only use. With Garrett I would go with a GT35 0.82

The TDO6H 12cm provides great linear delivery for track, but some stage I'm interested to slip on a 10cm housing. With that I'd expect 3-500rpm earlier for full boost, say 2900rpm for 17psi. The 12cm housing for road-only might not be the ideal match if you need mumbo in the 2000-3000rpm range. 12cm is more than adequate for response across 3500-7000 on track though.

For the money would also look closely at a BW 7670 especially if finances don't stretch to a proper split pulse with twin gates, fancy manifold etc.

Ke55pig Proficient

Ke55pig

Posted
Posted

My t67 comes on at 4100 in 4th on a 25 but makes peek power at 7800 at a flat 17 across the board .

My understanding was that it would come on around 3600 on 30 and behave well on the st.

This kinda annoys me as i had planned to use this settup eg put a 30 bottom end on.

Michelomore made 400 on a 2530 with a gtx3076 .8 i beleive

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's all application dependent for what is best suited.

^^ Fully agree the GT3582 is more suited to the 3 litre than a GT30. Those 1.06 housings aren't so easy to acquire, and the bulkier housing impinges into the centre bearing area making hookup to oil/water lines more difficult.

Cheapest option by far is to run the existing TD06SDL2-25G (aka T67 25G)and see if he likes it. Dimensions suggest broadly similar capabilities to a GTX3076.

30DET with stock cams, VCT working, stock inlet manifold etc will belt out some decent mid range torque but tend to peak around/just under 6000rpm. Bigger turbine does not automatically equate to peaky or laggy performance. But it can extend the usable upper rpm without making it gutless right down low. That's why the TDO6H 10cm turbine spec was suggested. I would back it as a very good all rounder, with the 12cm more suited to track. There's enough in-car video in my 33 build thread to demonstrate that unit as progressive, not focused on peak power.

350rwhp was a figure mentioned earlier. If the preference is for Kinugawa product and that sort of hp and very quick/early spool to fry rubber, try a TDO6SL2-20G. Not big $$ to play around and trial. I reckon it would fall over with engine rpm, maybe 5500. I'd suggest similar in sizing and characteristics to a GT3071.

The BW 7670 shouldn't be ignored. Robust, priced competitively, and different specs available to tailor it to application.

Edited by Dale FZ1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

The t67 25g seemes to preform between the 3076 and the 3582.

Really depend on were he wants the power band sounds like down low for the street

not sure if you noticed the above dyno graph I posted of a GTX3582 on a 3.0L 2JZ

but it's all in at 3500rpm with 25psi and look at the power delivery, also if you were to run a little less boost it would come on even earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...