Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Not sure if I'm posting in the right topic but I need a little advice and guidance with wanting to replace my stock dual exhaust with a "cannon".

All I want to achieve is the cosmetic change with a different sounding note, sound a little bit meaner or not so stock.

Every time I ask mechanically minded friends they either just say get a wog cannon or get a super overpriced new exhaust system, extractors, catback but all I'm after for now is what I mentioned above as I'm focussing more on the engine side of things as opposed to expensive cosmetic stuff.

I was looking at this http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/151744917951

How do I go about finding out if one of these is compatible with my 2000 R34 GT-T and then fitting it?

Any help or advice would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461213-cannonmuffler-noob-help/
Share on other sites

Go to exhaust shop.

You're so helpful Ben, have you read some of your older posts or any of your posts? You sound like someone who has got zero idea. But we know you do have an idea but aren't willing to reply with a sensible answer.

Why do you bother posting?

Any muffler can be cut welded and new hangers made. So any muffler you choose can be made to fit any car. Expect around $80 to have this done.

  • Like 1

You're so helpful Ben, have you read some of your older posts or any of your posts? You sound like someone who has got zero idea. But we know you do have an idea but aren't willing to reply with a sensible answer.

Why do you bother posting?

Any muffler can be cut welded and new hangers made. So any muffler you choose can be made to fit any car. Expect around $80 to have this done.

Pretty much, I'm new to Skylines and this forum in general but I've fancied Skylines since I was a kid and want to learn as much as I can, I look to this forum for that and am often chastised or given little to no help/advice or just smart remarks. If you have the knowledge, just share it, don't be a tool. Christ.

Thank you for that, all I could ask for. Not too keen on rolling into an exhaust shop not knowing what I'm talking about, so figured I'd get a rough idea here first.

The reason threads like this get such zero effort responses is due to the fact that it has been covered a million times.

If op searches Google and even YouTube then he will get everything his heart desires.

And just welding a canon is going to sound as poo as drilling a hole in your exhaust.

You're so helpful Ben, have you read some of your older posts or any of your posts? You sound like someone who has got zero idea. But we know you do have an idea but aren't willing to reply with a sensible answer.

Why do you bother posting?

Any muffler can be cut welded and new hangers made. So any muffler you choose can be made to fit any car. Expect around $80 to have this done.

Where would he go to get that done?

If I didn't help he would still be puzzled.

Just food for thought for now mate, once I tick off the vital things I wanna do, I'll start making little modifications such as this and work my way up but the way it runs is definetely priority now.

What you should do, well what i did was go to the import wreckers and find a Jap catback system, it wont cost you much and you can install yourself... it will sound nice just like you want, if the muffler says JASMA then it wont draw unwanted attention when normal driving.. Later on you can change the rear muffler or whatever if you start making lots of power..

I would avoid exhaust shops because in my short experience with them all, they are wankers!!! They'll probably fit some shit parts, take the car for a good flogging and return it to you with the front bumper scratched plus a nice big bill... :spank:

Go to an exhaust shop and say you want a cannon muffler put on. They put those on civics and hyundais everyday of the week.

If you want something worthwhile, get a 3" catback

What's one of those worth roughly?

Just a rough idea, this will be my next upgrade after the Splitfires

Let me know how you go if you decide to go with just a new muffler. Currently in the same boat as you deciding whether to just get a new muffler for sound and looks or whether to get a full system (might do this down the track).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...