Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next month I'm about to pull the pin on some 2860R -5 but have some question about the marriage between the turbos and my engine. The old bird has done 197,000km and she runs quit well. She is stock and only has an exhaust and PFC as mods. I'm just wondering if these turbos are going to kill the engine or are there supporting mods I can do to make the union work without a catastrophe or is there a safe boost range to work within?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/
Share on other sites

Its all in the tune. If you are worried you can do a compression and/or leakdown test but there is no way you can get more power from your engine without increasing loads. The amount of boost is irrelevant - either you want more power or you don't. Plenty of people have increased the power on their unopened engines - some last for years some don't. The only thing you can do usefully is use quality synthetic oil and get a really good tune.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650236
Share on other sites

Its all in the tune. If you are worried you can do a compression and/or leakdown test but there is no way you can get more power from your engine without increasing loads. The amount of boost is irrelevant - either you want more power or you don't. Plenty of people have increased the power on their unopened engines - some last for years some don't. The only thing you can do usefully is use quality synthetic oil and get a really good tune.

Pretty much what Kiwis4t said.....

If the leakdown and compression test come back good, some good oil and a good safe tune is all you need. (and supporting injectors, fuel pump etc)

Edited by GTRPSI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650251
Share on other sites

fuark, mine's a mint Edward Lees R33. Shows 149xxx but body says it has about 350xxx.

Rust was hidden with sound deadening, motor had leaks on rear main seal, front main seal, cam covers etc.

Did all the maintenance work and now sees 23 to 25psi err day stock motor and gets raped on the track, albeit it's a shit box GTS-t so yours being a GTR you have no worries.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650407
Share on other sites

Who's Edward Lees?

awesome car yard in Sydney that can supply any car with the kms you want lol.. they simply wind the clock back to what you want and tell you they've found this mint car from Japan LOL

I personally didn't buy my rust bucket from them, but the previous owner did!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650420
Share on other sites

I'll take kiwi and johns advice on board Thx for the suggestions.

The reason for my concern is that I read somewhere that -7 and -9 place less stress than the -5 and that the smaller turbos would be a better choice for an engine that's travelled further. Don't know if the information is good but by the sounds of things seems as though ppl here are quite optimistic with the strength of the RB 26 lashing out the power regardless of Km's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650446
Share on other sites

I'll take kiwi and johns advice on board Thx for the suggestions.

The reason for my concern is that I read somewhere that -7 and -9 place less stress than the -5 and that the smaller turbos would be a better choice for an engine that's travelled further. Don't know if the information is good but by the sounds of things seems as though ppl here are quite optimistic with the strength of the RB 26 lashing out the power regardless of Km's.

MotiveDVD guys have their stock motor R32 GTR making over 450kW at all fours with only new headstuds and a head gasket.

These RB motors love it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461537-save-my-rb26/#findComment-7650454
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...