Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a Greddy/trust stainless manifold which had a custom manifold brace made from the T4 flange to the block to support the weight of the turbo, now Soon I'm ready to start fabricating the dump pipe and have herd some mixed opinions about solid mounting it and using a flexi joint.

I have herd to use flat bar to solid mount the dump pipe to the top bellhousing bolt then running a flexi joint after that to allow movement of the exhaust

Then ive herd people say to never solid mount the manifold or dump pipe just run the standard gearbox rubber hanger

What would be the best way to support and brace the dump to keep the weight off the turbo and manifold ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462021-turbo-manifold-dump-pipe-brace/
Share on other sites

It should be fine to have the manifold and dump braced as you're suggesting. Just make sure there is a flex somewhere in the exhaust otherwise shocks to the system result in breakages of studs or worst case the manifold/dump.

Personally i wouldnt he constraining the manifold to the box. Sure support the weight off the head but if you constrain the dump then when e erything gets hot you woll be forcing it to grow in the opposite direction. Best support the weight then give it freedom to grow in whatever direction it chooses

I just had a look at mine, Im using the same manifold etc you are, with a TD06. My dump pipe has neither bracing NOR a flex joint. Manifold is not braced to block either. Manifold does however have small braces to prevent cracking etc

This exact turbo kit has been on my car for 2+ years, and has been on 2 cars previous to mine (R32 GTR and Driftsquid's S13 with RB25) plus whatever else before it. And before someone points it out, manifold flange was modded with 2 extra sets of holes, so fits RB25 and RB26.

Not one single issue whatsoever. No broken studs, no issues with dump pipe etc, I do however use new rubber exhaust hangers, and put new studs and gaskets in when turbo kit went on, but thats it.

The setup ive run on my track car with good sucess steam pipe mani no brace, flex joint in dump when it comes off turbo going down then a support for the dump at the flange to exhuast but not completly solid alowing play just enough to hold its weight.

I was also thinking about thermal expansion when you brace too much, which may cause more issues as it cannot expand

The brace from manifold to block is free to move as the manifold expands, I was just wondering about bracing the dump,

I may make the the dump pipe with a flexi joint and just run the factory gearbox rubber mount, should be good enough

I was also thinking about thermal expansion when you brace too much, which may cause more issues as it cannot expand

The brace from manifold to block is free to move as the manifold expands, I was just wondering about bracing the dump,

I may make the the dump pipe with a flexi joint and just run the factory gearbox rubber mount, should be good enough

One of these!

3BFA8BA2-503F-4AA5-B87E-4D646D23C170_zps

50BBC131-1F45-4F97-85A1-24CEEDF5718E_zps

Yep just got one ! 4" stainless flexi joint for the dump

Would take a lot of stress off the manifold as the exhaust shakes and Carrys on during driving

You still running the gearbox exhaust mount which bolt to the cat flange (decat lol) ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...