Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also related - the installation guide pertaining to RB motors which outlines a few key points including pulley alignment, crank snout inspection etc.

https://rossperformanceparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Ross-Tuffbond-Harmonic-Damper-Installation-Instructions.pdf 

Another thread over on the performance forums with additonal info. They accomodate the trigger kit nicely, i think prep and correct installation goes a long way to making them work correctly.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eperformanceforums%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D67228295&share_tid=67228295&share_fid=3371&share_type=t

Use a ross balancer and trigger kit that I bought late 2016 on my built rb25 ~600hp, dyno work, rollracing, track night and street work so far. pulled the motor out to sort another issue and everthing is in great condition with no issues snout is fine, balancer is fine trigger kit is brilliant so in the short term it hasnt caused any issues like decives older balancer.. When talking to one of the techs over the phone he seemed to think incorrect install and not torquing the balancer bolt can cause some issues. Would not hesitate to buy another ross balancer.

Just got my car back today from MRC Mark said he replaced the 3 standard drive belts with smaller sized ones to fit the smaller underdriven pulleys correctly. Worth noting for anyone else looking at replacing their balancer as the original belts can be chucked back back on, but not ideal. Mine was the basic metal jacket version that is compatible with AC in stock location.

 

While the car was there I also got my injectors serviced so i got Mark to spin it up on the dyno to do a check over and a few power runs to ensure the balancer and fuel were doing what they were supposed to for peace of mind.

 

  • 3 months later...

Just finished installing my race series balancer and trigger kit. 

After Initial fitment I ran a straight edge from balancer to power steering pulley and found the power steering pulley around 2mm out of square and alignment. 

This is using rb30 block, crank and power steering pump and bracket with an rb30 spec balancer. 

Some massaging of the pump mounts with a flappy disc and a die grinder had it lined up perfectly. 

Just word for thought I would always recommended double checking belt/pulley alignment to save future hassles. 

  • 10 months later...

So based on recent experiences people are happy all this hoo-ha has been resolved with Ross balancers?

I have myself in a pickle where I need a new R33 GTR power steering pump and when you can find them people want the same money as a Ross balancer that means I can go back to either of my old PS pumps with a vanilla Metal Jacket balancer. 

Silly question are they any heavier or lighter than std?

 

image.jpeg.e11f237037e35b19fbcb76c2128cf5d5.jpeg

  • 4 weeks later...

Ross has also updated their balancers in mid 2019 to have an integrated crank trigger and also a bit more robust (slightly higher HP rating) across the range.

https://www.facebook.com/RossPerformanceParts/posts/2425259977752017

Ross Performance Parts are excited to announce the release of our new **Nissan RB Metal Jacket Harmonic Damper with Integrated Crank Trigger Disc**

We decided it was time to rebuild our RB Metal Jacket from the ground up. Incorporating over 15 years of experience, countless racing engine hours and feedback from industry experts from around the globe, the result is a product that is not only cheaper, but better, than our old 'bolt on trigger' option.

The integrated trigger has a number of benefits. Not only does it seamlessly service crank triggering, it also allowed us to increase damping mass by a huge 20% in our Metal Jacket range while decreasing overall assembly weight. These changes resulted in an increase of the horsepower rating to an industry leading 800hp, while still maintaining all OEM pulley diameters and offsets for a true bolt on upgrade.

Get yours here - http://bit.ly/Ross-RB-Dampers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...