Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-142398-0-96930500-1454458988_thumb.jpg

Hey guys

How do i fix the rear camber and raise the ride height? As you can see with the setup i have now the tires dont fit the rims because the car is lowered too much and there is some camber. The front tires are the same but with coilovers so i think i can fix them up its just the back ones that are the problem.

Any advice would be most appreciated thanks.

...........wut

the tires dont fit the rims because the car is lowered?

what are you trying to fix? do you want negative camber to fit wide wheels under a low car?

camber is the only thing squeezing the wheels (which are either too wide or the wrong offset however you look at it, you aint fixing that without new wheels) under the car.

raising it will reduce some natural camber but then your wheels are going to poke out more.

do do you want to raise the car and remove the negative camber?

that pick tells us nothing, also what is your current setup? wheels specs, what has been changed?

what suspension components are you using? do you have adjustable things like coilovers or adjustable camber arms ect.

Edited by GH05T

i want to fix the camber and be able to fit tyres onto the rims without having them stretched. The tyres that are on the wheels atm are stretched. The front has coilovers not sure about the back. I dont have adjustable camber arms but im looking into buying some for the back. Im not sure what the wheel specs are. Basically what i want to know is what do i need to fix the rear camber and how to fit the tyres properly.

Sell wheels and buy wheels that fit within the guards.

Get adjustable upper arms to adjust camber. You may get away with adjustable bushes (e.g. Whiteline).

You may have to get new suspension (or second hand rear struts, but who know what will happen to your handling).

take the wheels off and see whats been installed, if you have excessive negative camber it may have aftermarket camber arms already, i cant see from that pick but it may be from being too low.

and are you saying its got coilovers in the front but nor rear and is low all round? thats a bad combo.

nothing is going to make those wheels fit though, bigger tires (which may be more suited to the wheels) are never going to fit the car, you can bandaid an offset too high but not too low, those wheels do not fit period.

do this:

- new wheels that fit the car.

- "if" the aftermarket suspension is adjustable raise it back up or,

- get coilovers, stock structs or new suspension to suit the height you want and get the car to the required height (good move)

- IF the camber is still too negative get new camber arms to suit (probably stock)

Edited by GH05T

Thanks for the advice guys. A shame nothing can be done for the wheels i have now though. I thought i could put coilovers on the back and raise the height so that bigger tyres can fit the rims.

Well you could do as you say. Raise the height so the tyres don't foul the guards at rest then fit tbigger tyres. But just as the boys said above, they will now poke put even more, especially if you also wind off some camber. And they will probably still foul the guards on bump.

Yeah you have the wrong wheels - sell them and get something with a sensible offset. There's no other solution. As an added bonus you wont have to worry about getting defected any time a cop pulls you over. :yes:

If you want to keep the current wheels, you can look at wider guards or rolling the guards.

Have a look in there in case if PO has installed spacers.

Fixing camber at that height will bring the top edge of the tyre closer to the wheel arch.

Adjustable lower and upper arms can help you bring in the wheels a little if they dont rub on the inside.

The CV joints can slide in more if needed, but dont go too far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...