R32 Rb25det S2 Street Drift Build

[steezy32]

okay so here is my r32 ex track car

(Aug 2015)

(Febuary 2016)

List of mods*

- rb25det s2

-rb25det gearbox

-gtr clutch

-op6 turbo

-kaaz two way diff

-cusco coilovers up front

-tein in rear

-s14 steering rack

-full rose bushes

-subframe collars

bought it with most mods but had a low comp motor car was certed for all mods and had just passed pits, so a fuxked motor was no problem at all

well this "f**ked" motor continued to battle for months coping thrashing after thrashing would just lose more power but still start first pop !

Okay now i turned the boost upto 13 psi and then it started to boogie abit more

However was still slow and in desprate need for a freshen up

so i after a few months i aquired a head with hks 272 cams new springs retainers new water pump new timing belt and was starting to look into getting an rb30 block then bam !

I saw a motor for sale on gumtree and after i showed my friend, who was in the same car club as him had told me it was forged ! He was selling his longblock and gearbox for 1600

Motor was built but he lost paper work so he couldnt prove it.

Ross racing harmonic balancer lightweight pulleys and torque honed head grabbed that straight up !

So after a few months she finally blew and i ripped motor out and put the new rb25det with a fresh extreme clutch

Heres my little build ..

as this was my first engine removal/replacement i thought id take lots of photos and share my experiance so that someone in a similar situation may lear something

Step 1 set up area seriously set it up so that its comfterble tools are easy to grab and cars as reasonably high as you can get it because if its shit to work on it will put you of doing it and could potentially make the whole job stressfull asf .

Step2 now job areas set up i started on all the easy shit intercooler piping bumper etc (took lots and lots of photos ov everything) etc

Step 3 gearbox bolts undone i lowered gearbox to make it easier left two easy ones heres the two top flamin mongrel ones

[steezy32]

okay so at this stage everything was running smoothly bolts werent to hard to get too tbh top starter motor one was a lil bit painfull i jacked it up undone xmember bolts lowered gearbox then undone all bolts except two easy ones then jacked it back up

But motor was ready to come out !

Heres motor out of the car, side note our garage floor is brick and the crane continually got stuck very annoying !

This was how i had set it up when i was running a china plenum but decided to rip it off and go all stock as its a street car i just wanted the lowkey look

In future i wont do that again way to many hoses and bolts to get to took longer then expected -,-

So next step was getting motor in waited for a mate but took to long so i had a go myself and managed to get it in ! 20 mins max i had lined up the clutch plate before motor went in so easy days juat a lil bit of playing around with gearbox jack up down untill i got the sweet spot ..

Now im flying at this point ( i do fifo so i had 4 days off and got up at 3 and would finish at 9 at night managed to get to this stage on the second day keep in mind i done everything my self even the bonnet lol had one side unbolted and used the stick to prop it up and then other side got it out.

but just get someone to help alot easier

then boom the 850cc injectors i bought off gumtree had not fit the factory harness so this was my big delay and where im at now through all my planning and prep i got struck out i should have checked but now i know for next time

[steezy32]

Fast forward four years nearly ?

Still in possession of car the car, block I had put in that was forged actually had piston damage to no.3 piston so as soon as I rotated crank it locked up on the valve, I should have stripped and checked but I had faith as it was a good friend of mine.

at around this time a s1 rb25det come up for sale list of mods 

greedy intake 

6boost mani 

48mm turbosmart wastegate 

spitfire coilpacks 

tomei poncams 256 8.5mm lift

so I picked it straight up removed the forged motor put new motor in, stripped down to head installed ARP headstuds and cometic metal head gasket bolted back together sourced a Garrett gt35r that I put on, later would trade it for a 3076r a lot more parts and sourcing and would put as much together as I can sent off to mike at wa racing devolopments for intercooler piping touch ups and tune and made a nice 406 hp at 16 psi ( Mac valve was faulty so tuned off wastegate pressure)  

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

I then managed to get myself I to a lot of trouble with the police but was to attached to this car to sell it so I put it in storage for about 3 years I pulled it out earlier this year as I moved into a new house with a workshop so brang my home, upon inspecting it I was horrified at how poorly a lot of the work I had completed was, it worked awesome don’t get me wrong I thrashed this car day I and day out on the same motor (still in it atm reading healthy compression) but was just not visually astetic as all I cared about was making it perform 

 

If if you look at the firewall a lot of the wrong was just hanging there, vacuum lines were to short so running through places instead of being neatly tucked away, bunch of wiring running over the strut tower just messy in my opinion 

So redone a lot of wiring replaced vacuum lines so it could be more hidden changed the breather lines to a more discreet black piping instead of bright blue repainted rocker covers (just a recoat in wrinkle paint) and it come out a lot better than what it was

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

However I was still not happy, so I decided to strip most of the bay aside from engine intake and turbo and give the engine bay a respray

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

this really bought the bay to life, this was my first time spraying with a gun and air compressor first spray paint reacted to something on the front left strut tower so sanded down primed and resprayed and come out perfect 

[steezy32]

This is currently how the engine sits 

[steezy32]

I’ve removed washer bottle as it looks disgusting and I don’t want to paint it or pay for a custom fabbed  one 

coolant overflow I’ve ordered a universal one to replace the old busted factory one yet to fit it still waiting for it to come but hopefully that fits okay 

 

im respraying the rocker covers as I found the wrinkle paint full and over time the wrinkle goes down leaving a flat Matt like paint, having issues with gun so gonna give it a full strip and clean down, some plastic primer and then we’ll be good to continue with that 

[steezy32]

The interior looked quite poorly as well I had tacky cambergang stickers, centre part was very poorly done so I removed it made a new one with a 4 panel switchboard Removed stickers and tidied gauges up 

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

[steezy32]

Since top photo I have removed both stickers 

As of now moving forward with the 32 I’m looking at respraying the body however I have a dent in the rear quarter I need panel beated and the front fender a few more cosmetic prices to add to the engine bay as well as rear fenders as I wanna run either ,equip o5 ,weds ldzx, vskf something with a lot of dish 

 

[steezy32]

began stripping down my forged motor and have priced up a new piston at 336$ however not sure on condition of rod as piston has contacted valve and I’m unsure if rod has Been slightly bent looks 100% fine but need an expert opinion 

but if all is well will go ahead with the forged build 

[MoMnDadGTR]

cars got some attitude looking good m8, do the rods too for what its worth. im assuming your going to rehone and go a bit bigger with new rings to make up tolerances again. Rods might have seen some serious stress when contacting valves even if it seems straight could be a problem down the line.  I had an old cummins that did the same thing and I reused the rods. was a mistake as it ended up through the block 2500km later on a hard pull.  Keep taking your time do it right. when they hone the block, have the head machined as well as make sure machine shop checks the trueness off the exhaust ports as they can become untrue over time(by this I mean if you run a flat edge across all the ports they can become untrue to each other creating stress on manifold which is why you see a lot of expensive manifolds still crack because this step is skipped on machining often. pick the right head gasket, tune er up away ya go. good luck m8 hope this was a help.

Edited January 22, 2020 by MoMnDadGTR

[MoMnDadGTR]

and don't worry about cosmetics bro you seem like a driver, get the car running mint and keep enjoying it. paint her up when car is mechanically ready to hammer down. car looks good the way it is its a warrior.

[steezy32]

Thanks mate yeah your dead right exactly why I just purchased the long block and put in I wanted to do my motor rebuild slowly and correctly and not rush it, my mate who sold it to me fessed up and said the idler bolt snapped causing the valve to piston damage so it did only break on low rpm and not under full load etc 

the price for one piston is actually not that cheap almost worth while buying a full set, yeah I’ll strip block right down rehone go a higher tolerance with rings new bearings, I have a few heads sitting there so I’m not to sure what extent I’m going to go with that wether I convert to solid lifters or just have the head machines do springs and retainers and drop my poncams in, I don’t really like big horsepower prefer it under 500hp as I can really push the car to its limits I don’t think I’d be confident over the 500hp mark