Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

My mate bought an r32 a while ago from an interstate auction and, after he had ti fixed and repainted etc, it turned out that it was a stat right off :P so he kinda got jacked.

anyway due to the fact that he cant register it, might as well sell it, as its just been sittn in his driveway

its a r32 gtst

custom paitnjob (thats no use though :P)

clean interior

rb20det (not sure bout kms, but could check if any1 is interested)

thats bout it i guess, its pretty much stock except 4 the paint job, from memory i think the front bar is slightly damaged as my mate hit a dog back :(

well anyway if any1 has an r3s which is badly damaged or wants one for parts let me no.

NOT WILLING TO SEPERATE.

anyone interested please me me an offer

bazz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46424-fs-cheap-r32-gtst-4-parts-only/
Share on other sites

thanx monir lol

well he bought it and had it registered i think in melbourne, but in nsw it couldn b registerd for sum reason. and he wanted to take em to court over it. but doubthe went through with it. anyway like i said its just for parts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...