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Turbolight 4100 Gone. Motul H-tech 100 Plus? [engine Oil]

Joni Boi

By Joni Boi,
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Joni Boi Contributor

Joni Boi

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Hey guys

I want to replace my engine oil in my R34 (RB25DET Neo). I've done some research on the best oils. Everyone has their own opinion on oils but the majority seems to be leaning towards the Motul Turbolight 4100 engine oil. So I went to a couple of stores to check if any has them in stock but na-da, nothing. Autobarn has 2 Motul oils which are 6100 synergie and 8100 x-cess. I asked one of the clerks at the store and he said that I should try Auto Pro, so I rang two Auto Pro stores and they both told me that Motul has stopped producing turbolights and that Motul has replaced it with Motul H-Tech 100 Plus. Is this true?

Has anyone tried Motul H-Tech 100+? Is it really the replacement of turbolight and is it the same or better?

Also, a store here in Perth has Motul 300V Chrono in stock which apparently is some high quality shit for if you're going to the races or something but it's $110 for 4L! And I only use my R34 as a streetcar and daily drives. I'm not planning on racing with it or going sideways. Will the 300V be worth it as a streetcar?

Also, now that winter is starting should I look at buying a lower viscosity oil?

What do you guys reckon?

Edited by Joni Boi
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

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Posted

300v is awesome, made my car noticeably faster. No joke. Not wallet friendly though.

I used to use 4100 religiously and it's a good oil but yes, you can get equal/better oils for same price and it pissed me off that it was so hard to find, so ended up switching oils to something most stores stock.

Joni Boi Contributor

Joni Boi

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300v is awesome, made my car noticeably faster. No joke. Not wallet friendly though.

I used to use 4100 religiously and it's a good oil but yes, you can get equal/better oils for same price and it pissed me off that it was so hard to find, so ended up switching oils to something most stores stock.

Oh ok, I thought turbolight was good for your turbo or something lolz, I don't know much about engine oils. But I'll try get something full synthetic 10w-40 like junkie said

Joni Boi Contributor

Joni Boi

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Nulon Hi-Tech 10W-40 or Penrite HPR10 will be fine. Grab a few when they are on special at Supercheap. I have 4x bottles of HPR10 in the carhole

Cheers mate :) I'll do that tomorrow.

Anyone els want to voice their suggestions, I'm still open for anything els to try

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

for me, Castrol edge seemed to hold temp and oil pressure better, I noticed oil temp went up when I switched to the penrite 10-tenths. Will likely go back to the Castrol at next oil change, but would use penrite again if needed, and it is widely available.

Joni Boi Contributor

Joni Boi

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I bought new oil, filter and sump + washer bolt (from nissan dealership). Came home, jacked the car up, went to go unbolt the sump and f**k me, the bloody thing is stripped...

200.gif

Now I've got a problem that I can't be bothered posting a new thread about so I'm gonna post here. It keeps turning anti-clock wise but it won't come out, not even a little bit. $@!$$@!!! Previous owner or mechanic must have over tightened it when they changed the oil. I really don't want to buy a new drain pan. This is so stupid! :rant: I tried getting a screw driver under the sump to lever it into a thread but cant get a gap between the sump and pan. Also tried loosening and at the same time pulling it with pliers but no dice.

GUYS, don't overtighten stuff!!

Edited by Joni Boi
Joni Boi Contributor

Joni Boi

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I would assume the same as the coolant drain bolt: 34-44 Nm?

I just tighten it and when it starts getting tight, just nip it a little. Won't fall out lol. You can put thread sealant on the sump so it never leaks.

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