Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay mate, I edited my post before you posted that but if you want to be childish thats fine.

Anfanee, what exactly is a platinum pro going to do over a PFC that your average joe shmo actually NEEDS? Go on GTR PARTS on Facebook and you can pickup a PFC D-Jetro any day of the week for $700. I don't see what the issue is here?

haha relax. It was a joke.

Your argument just isn't very good. You're saying you can buy old tech for $700, that's great, but you still need to buy a loom, map sensor or afm and anything else that needs adding on to get it to work, just like the emanage and other old tech.

Buy something like an adaptronic which is new and that will work out of the box and has all the features inbuilt. After sales support is incredible and are Australian, and if you want the next model up you can upgrade by contacting them.

haha relax. It was a joke.

Your argument just isn't very good. You're saying you can buy old tech for $700, that's great, but you still need to buy a loom, map sensor or afm and anything else that needs adding on to get it to work, just like the emanage and other old tech.

Buy something like an adaptronic which is new and that will work out of the box and has all the features inbuilt. After sales support is incredible and are Australian, and if you want the next model up you can upgrade by contacting them.

Why do you need a loom? They're plug and play, if you stay with AFMs then you have to go Nismo or Z32 (which negates the price difference unfortunately), so you're better off buying a D-Jetro. Which you can get with the loom and sensor for $700. It's still good value.

While most of the things in this thread have been true, haltech is a better ecu there is no doubting that. But my argument still remains of the "buy the parts to suit your application". Most people on here aren't doing anything fancy but whacking on a big single and hoping for 400kw on usually, a stock bottom end. PowerFC will do the job well, and even after they rebuild it and learn the hard way how expensive everything gets (gtr lyf), a PFC will still do everything you need it to do.

jesus christ Borci, let it go man, why are you sticking so hard to your guns?

nistune is fine, personally if i was spending money to push to 400 i would like some safety features, i would go maffless as resolution may become an issue. there is a good argument to go haltec and a decent argument to stay nistune. there is still a good argument to go and spend allot more and get a motec or something.

BUT your banging on like he should rip out a nistune and spend money on a used pfc like a bad used car salesman, where was your valid point in this thread before you filled it with shit and arguments?

  • Like 1

PowerFC fan boy, used it, tuned several, got rid of it. Even got rid of a D-Jetro out of a track 180SX I'm building and tuning.

Sold that dinosaur egg for the price of an Adaptronic ECU which has flex support, engine protection, wideband feedback, traction control, anti lag ra ra ra.

Don't see the PowerFC doing that.

And for the record Nistune > PowerFC.. I have a soft spot for Nistune. Basic, yet elegant not to mention flex support out of the box too.. don't see powerfc with that.

Hey if you already have a powerfc use it, but if you're on the market for something you must be totally daft to buy one.

  • Like 2

If the tuner can't tune a haltech I suggest finding a new tuner.

What if your tuner won't tune a Haltech lol

I know a few now that charge a surcharge for tuning Haltechs

Frankly IMO if you need more then PFC/Nistune can do I would be stepping over a Haltech to something better

What if your tuner won't tune a Haltech lol

I know a few now that charge a surcharge for tuning Haltechs

Frankly IMO if you need more then PFC/Nistune can do I would be stepping over a Haltech to something better

There's a bloke in the act who refuses to tune haltech because of the problems he has had with warranty and ecus not working. Not the first person I've spoken to who has had this problem either.

  • Like 1

What if your tuner won't tune a Haltech lol

I know a few now that charge a surcharge for tuning Haltechs

Frankly IMO if you need more then PFC/Nistune can do I would be stepping over a Haltech to something better

See the bold writing again.

If a tuner refuses to tune one of the biggest brands in ECU's he is either lazy or doesn't know what he is doing. Either way.

If the tuner can't tune a haltech I suggest finding a new tuner.

There's a bloke in the act who refuses to tune haltech because of the problems he has had with warranty and ecus not working. Not the first person I've spoken to who has had this problem either.

yeah probably because of his experience with the older Haltech E8, E6x, etc.. they're shit.

The newer Haltechs are amazeballs :D

yeah probably because of his experience with the older Haltech E8, E6x, etc.. they're shit.

The newer Haltechs are amazeballs :D

I know of a Haltech Platinum Pro that just dumped its tune for no reason while it was getting driven up a freeway leaving the owner stranded till someone could get a laptop up to him to reload the tune

Absolutely amazeballs :thumbsup:

I know of another newer gen Haltech the managed to make a motor spin backwards somehow, and as much as that is a massive feat it's not something that helps lap times lol

  • Like 1

Lol, it's sooo easy, oh no someone is bagging my ECU :P

Wat?

TBH i would expect any decent tuner to tune pretty much anything you throw at them. Not just Haltechs. I would expect any tuner to tune PFC's. If they can't/won't then it's simple, we kill the batman.

But in all seriousness, if a tuner can't/won't tune haltechs in particular i would question their abilities.

but anyway this topic is getting out of hand. The question was what ECU for 400KW+ the simple answer is keep the nistune. Buying a PFC when you already have a Nistune makes no logical sense. Speak to your tuner about the top brands and what they like to work with/look into what other people are running. The fact is the majority of performance GTR's run one of the haltech variants these days and there is a reason for it. They are fantastic. But at the end of the day the question of budget is drawn up. Your budget will decide what you get.

Wat?

TBH i would expect any decent tuner to tune pretty much anything you throw at them. Not just Haltechs. I would expect any tuner to tune PFC's. If they can't/won't then it's simple, we kill the batman.

But in all seriousness, if a tuner can't/won't tune haltechs in particular i would question their abilities.

but anyway this topic is getting out of hand. The question was what ECU for 400KW+ the simple answer is keep the nistune. Buying a PFC when you already have a Nistune makes no logical sense. Speak to your tuner about the top brands and what they like to work with/look into what other people are running. The fact is the majority of performance GTR's run one of the haltech variants these days and there is a reason for it. They are fantastic. But at the end of the day the question of budget is drawn up. Your budget will decide what you get.

Lol, I'm shit stirring :D, I see someone get touchy about someone saying something about something they have I like to poke a bit

I did say won't though, not can't, if a tuner told me can't tune a Haltech I'd aboutface and leave quick smart lol

Lol, I'm shit stirring :D, I see someone get touchy about someone saying something about something they have I like to poke a bit

I did say won't though, not can't, if a tuner told me can't tune a Haltech I'd aboutface and leave quick smart lol

I use a variety of ECUs, tune them setup them up etc.

I use a budget no frills Adaptronic where as I tell others to get Haltech.

But like my previous comment, if you're out on the market for a "replacement" ECU you must be pretty daft to go buy a PowerFC.. given for less money you can get a Nistune with a R35 or similar AFM and have flex support, launch control and the ability for water spray output (if you use the fan relay output).

I'll have a set of sard injectors running with a power fc better than most people could probably tune IDs with a Haltech.

Talk is cheap.

If the tuner actually gives a f*k and takes his time it doesn't matter what ecu you use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...