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Yeah there were some... sacrifices made by Nissan to enable the twin turbo components to actually be removable in car, its not all ideal.

Got the turbo from GcG, they had one in stock so it was pretty easy. Manifold is going to be made up by a friend who is a fabricator.
Picked up a few other things over the last few weeks. Rebuilt starter motor, R33 A/C compressor and honeywell 0-150PSI pressure sensors for the oil and fuel systems. Will be getting the engine on Monday, stuff will be getting serious then!

Definate gains by sorting out that twin turbo pipe, Skidz. Sand the welds back and it would still looking factory :P.

Skidz it does!

Next time that pipe comes off I'll probably do it, so i can do a before and after logged comparison and if it does anything i should see the actual difference in fueling in the VE table.

Skidz it does!

Next time that pipe comes off I'll probably do it, so i can do a before and after logged comparison and if it does anything i should see the actual difference in fueling in the VE table.

There is a few good old videos around the traps about it. Even looking at it you can see the flaws in it. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to work that out.

A bloke in the states did a back to back. 8-12 HP extra across the graph IIRC.

There is a few good old videos around the traps about it. Even looking at it you can see the flaws in it. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to work that out.

A bloke in the states did a back to back. 8-12 HP extra across the graph IIRC.

Seen them n wasnt really convinced of anything tho.

I imagine air to follow a path of least resistance and I would think that the front turbo pressurising the second turbo would not be the path of least resistance.

Fuel tank out and exhaust off today, moved the car out and cleaned up, got the engine stand out. All ready for a special delivery tomorrow...

I'm going to miss this exhaust, seemed like a great performer and was good for noise, the full mid muffler may have something to do with that. Will have to crack it in half and have a squiz at the internal diameter later.

What are all you single turbo people doing for the turbo fluids? Oil intake should be easy, line from the block to turbo with correct fittings/elbows etc, ditto for water. Its the drains/returns i'm wondering about.

Oil wise as I understand use the front oil return, and block off the rear? braided return?

Water wise, the factory water return setup has a weird hardline combo that runs both to the water area at the rear of the block and also to the water return at the front of the block, I could tap it into that or just run a braided line to the front hardline?

Can't even see the best bits in that photo. Will probably help my dad do a rebuild once the car is back up and running, its getting pretty bad.

This week hopefully, got the whole week off so progress should be quicker

Started workign on under the plenum today, deleting the coolant and air lines that run around the back to the turbo plus the oil cooler lines. Used a RB20 water tap from the block instead of the split 26 one and got the ports on the water tube welded closed. Also removed the IAC as it was likely leaking and isn't required with the after market ECU, can just use the AAC for cold start.
All in all should be a lot less crowded down there... until I put the loom back in and i'm sure it'll look like a dogs breakfast again...

Also got my twin in tank fuel system done, pretty stoked with that, i'll grab some pictures tomorrow. Need to find some old hicas lines to use as fuel feed and return I think.

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Sorted out the under plenum pipework. Much much better.
Could have removed the unused fittings from the plenum and tapped+bunged them I suppose, but will just cap them and water inlet on the under runner water line. Retaining heater so now all I have is hot water out the block and the return.

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Also as promised, pictures of the twin intank pump setup. I'm getting some Hicas lines (threw mine away, silly..) to use as hard lines for the fuel feed and return.

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Also pissed off the BoV's and pipework. Some good weight reduction there...

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Finally a mate was around and installed the LED high beams he'd been bugging me to do for ages. With these in and the HID's I should be able to do the mod to keep the low beams on with the highs, resulting in a much nicer amount of light at night.

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Unfortunately i've had a few hold ups...
Decided to throw the inspection camera in the sump just in case... And found 2 of the 3 trapdoors are stuck open. :unhappy:
The pickup doesn't really look good either, its on a ~15 degree angle from the bottom of the sump and around what looks to be 10mm from the bottom at the high end, from what I understand not really good enough. Also the oil pump wasn't notched enough for the crank trigger, so balancer will need to come off so I can attack it with a dremel. Literally only need to take 1mm of material off but its... frustrating. Also need to figure out how to actually fix the sensor in place, that's a bit of a mystery (cherry sensor). All in all, fun and games but a bit of a delay induced.

Also as promised, pictures of the twin intank pump setup. I'm getting some Hicas lines (threw mine away, silly..) to use as hard lines for the fuel feed and return.

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WHOA! This in-tank setup is specific to the R32 I take it?! I like that. Had I seen it I would have done that.

EDIT - found their facebook page.

  • 4 months later...

Firstly, Apologies for the image quality jumping around, have been using different cameras and phones.

Secondly, Stuff has been happening but i've got about 5-6 updates worth of stuff to catch up to the present day, i'll write those over today/coming days.

Anyway, got to installing the Crank trigger and noticed the notch in the oil pump hadn't be lined up correctly.. fail.
Also there was no balancer bolt supplied by the engine shop. Miss communication there i guess, but was worrying they stuck the balancer on and didn't even mention it to me.

Yanked the balancer off and gave it a bit of a file for clearance. Got an ARP balancer bolt to hold it back on.

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I also took the time to change out the streeting column bush while the engine was out. Wouldn't want to be doing it with the engine in at all. Old bushing was shot. Replaced it with a solid aluminum unit.

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Before putting the engine in I decided to crack out the inspection camera and have a look into the engine... and had a bit of a shock. The oil pickup extension hadn't been installed correctly and the trapdoors were stuck on it: the sump had been installed upside down.
Anyway, had to take sump off, ended up making a jig and redoing pickup in correct orientation. After that put the sump back up... from underneath, which was entertaining to say the least...

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Finally i fixed up the results of a poor repair on a battery explosion done by a previous owner... well sort of fixed it

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Possibly visible in the other update, but i've also removed all of the power steering lines. The R32 has a 2 rotor power steering pump, one for the rack itself and the second for the Hicas rack on the rear, which goes there via a solenoid in the front of the drivers side engine bay and then hard lines under the car to a second one at the back and returns to the resiviour via a cooler. These are all well gone, however the cooler and crossover pipes remained.
As I had some ideas for turbo mounting, and after seeing a 32 running one at a local car show, I decided to buy an astra power steering pump that my mate had got for his legnum, but hadn't found a place to actually mount it. And with the BOV's gone, i had the perfect spot. (except for access to top up the fluid :P). To get the lines in, i notched the bov vacuum and bolt holes next to the cooler pipe hole to accommodate the new hoses. As you can see there was quite a bit of a mess of stuff in the factory power steering lines, and there's no resiviour or pump in that picture either

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I also resealed the throttles as they had been cleaned by the painter :(

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A friend who has his own fabrication side business offered to do me up a custom manifold with so it was full steam ahead to get the engine in so i could get the car off to him for fit-up.

Sump back on after fixing the oil pickup:

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Car getting ready to accept something..

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Crank trigger sensor mounted correctly and gap set to 1.5mm

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Nismo Coppermix competition twin plate went on

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Gearbox mate up. Dam things are bloody loooong.

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And time to get it in the car...

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After this photo things went down hill. The balancer on the engine crane was great for getting the engine in and out, made it a breeeze. However, because of the front diff, the engine itself sat on a tilt to one side, and we had to take it in and out twice to adjust the chains and in the end needed to use a jack under the engine mount to lever it into place.. wasn't fun. However, end results!:

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Next day it was taken off to the fabricators shop.

 

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