Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I changed my front discs to 310 mm ebc grooved and red stuff

Planning to do the same at back

I want bigger discs for the looks of it but understand it won't fit it

Has anyone fitted a bigger disc than 310 or 296 for rear?

Do you gain much braking power by bigger disc as it has more surface ?

I also have braided lines and racing dot4 catsrol

What will be the next upgrade you do? Master cylinder or brembo calipers??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465273-disc-size-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

I did fit the front ebc dimpled and grooved and red stuff

It almost crashed the other day as it soften up while doing a hard braking so either needs bleeding or something is wrong

I am aiming to get 500-550 bhp from mine and want to have a brake which supports that power

I have seen posts people using asaptor kit to use evo disc of 350mm

My question is would 310 mm with brembo be as strong to hold the car at high speed ?

There must be a reason all super cars have a bigger disc

I have the AOR Brembo Kits front and rear on my R32 GT-R. The fronts made a massive difference but the rear upgrade was definitely required to restore the brake bias.

Just factor in your wheel size as factory 17" don't clear this setup.

I did fit the front ebc dimpled and grooved and red stuff

It almost crashed the other day as it soften up while doing a hard braking so either needs bleeding or something is wrong

I am aiming to get 500-550 bhp from mine and want to have a brake which supports that power

I have seen posts people using asaptor kit to use evo disc of 350mm

My question is would 310 mm with brembo be as strong to hold the car at high speed ?

There must be a reason all super cars have a bigger disc

If you were try try to put ~350mm rotors at the rear you would need stupendously big brakes at the front. Trying to match VERY big rears with 310mm fronts would be wrong wrong wrong wrong.

You will not need to upgrade your rears until your fronts are at least >340mm.

You want us to tell you whether to do that? Surely it depends on how important it is that you have large looking rear brakes.

If you have enough brake power for the driving you do then ANY brake modification you do from this point on is completely gratuitous and you have to justify spending the money to yourself.

Pretty sure track guys run stock rears with ~350mm fronts, so don't upgrade the rears until you're running something seriously big up front. If they're not pretty enough paint the callipers...With grippy tyres the rear gets unloaded more than with street tyres.

Failure modes are: pads overheat or fluid boils. Can you describe in more detail what you mean by "soften up".

EBC reds are a crossover pad, so almost certainly wont cut it at the track. What's the boiling point of the brake fluid? Dot 4 spec is only 230 degrees. Nulon xtreme will do 280, then Motuls to 320+. Did you do a full flush or just a bleed?

tl:dr pads are too conservative, if the fluid is anything less than 280 then swap it for nulon xtreme (since its cheap) and go from there.

If you are going to get Brembos for the front presumably they will be off a GTR so you would use the 324mm rotors as well. How did you manage to spend $1000 on GTT brakes? Was that for front and rear and some exotic pads or did you get expensive aftermarket rotors?

If you were using Castrol SRF racing brake fluid that is almost as good as Motul so probably not the problem (if you filled the system with fresh fluid and bled it adequately).

Seems likely poor pads were to blame.

If you want to splash out on bigger brakes still a set of D2 330mm rotors 8 pot calipers (sold under other names as well) with Pagid pads and 2 pot GTR brakes on the rear pulled up my big heavy Stagea lap after lap with no fade.

It's still not entirely clear to me what OP is after with his brakes.

If you're after performance not looks, here's what you can do to improve stock GTT brakes for $1,000, it's quite a lot: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

Just in case anyone else is looking to do this, here's the cost breakdown including delivery (late 2014):

  • $662 - DBA T3 4000 Club Spec slotted rotors (Vic Performance Parts on eBay)
  • $164 - Remsa pads (GSL RallySport)
  • $178.45 - HEL braided lines (HEL on eBay)
  • $70 - Brake master cylinder stopper (Gumtree)
  • $17.96 - 2 x Nulon Xtreme Performance Super Dot 4 fluid (SuperCheap Auto)

Total $1,092.41 plus labour to fit braided lines and change fluid (I wanted to leave that to the experts). Not too bad for brake improvement on a budget.

Red stuff are probably fine, they're just not suited to your use case. Yellows are the next step up for EBC, but to me they seem about the same as the crossover QFM A1RMs, so still not a track pad. Last time i checked the yellows were AU$308, A1RMs were AU$180, so EBC are poor value.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...