Jump to content
SAU Community

Delete Fan Hub And Install Thermos (water Pump Pulley, Need Brace?)

The Mafia

By The Mafia,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone

BNR34

I am removing my stock fan hub and fan, and installing a thermo fan.

Just curious, it's probably not a good idea to just put the nuts back on the pulley. I was thinking of making a round plate with 4 holes as a brace.

Either that or 4 decent sized washers to increase the torqued surface area of the nuts.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I had cooling issues. PWR radiator and my factory shroud. I even tried the stock radiator and still no luck. (Checked water pump, it was fine)

For some reason the car wouldn't stay cool at idle any more. As soon as I was 60kmph or more, it was fine and would drop the temps to 70 degrees on the highway. (I have a Nismo low temp thermostat).

I installed a brand new fan hub - no good.

Then I installed a Craig Davies fan hub (which is just locked all the time and a pain in the ass) and it worked. Everything stayed cool and the car idles cool now. But it was as loud as hell and dragging all the way to 8,000rpm. I didn't like the idea of a fan loading up that hard all the time.

So I got a bracket laser cut and fit a SPAL 3000cfm fan to the car.

Solid state relay, PWM, etc. Now I can set a full duty cycle via the ECU, and have it start up gently.

Edited by The Mafia
Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

can i ask why? generally a big step backwards

Hi Trent, I'm genuinely interested to know why you say that? Everyone has their own theory on it (most based on "cause I read it on..... forum") but you've obviously got the experience to back it up! I'm about to change over mine to thermos but before I do would love to hear why not before I do it!

Cheers.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's simply because there is no electric fan that can beat the air pumping rate of a good engine driven fan at idle speed. The invention of the viscous clutch hub allows that same fan to not be too parasitic on the engine at higher engine/vehicle speeds. Best of both worlds without having to run electric fans, which require a larger alternator, heavy(ish) motors at the front of the car, big fat wiring, fuses, etc etc.

There is a solid reason that vehicle manufacturers stuck with engine drive clutch fans for many years in RWD applications. FWD applications seldom had any choice but to go electric, which is probably the only reason that any level of development work was put into them.

  • Like 1
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I had cooling issues. PWR radiator and my factory shroud. I even tried the stock radiator and still no luck. (Checked water pump, it was fine)

For some reason the car wouldn't stay cool at idle any more. As soon as I was 60kmph or more, it was fine and would drop the temps to 70 degrees on the highway. (I have a Nismo low temp thermostat).

I installed a brand new fan hub - no good.

Then I installed a Craig Davies fan hub (which is just locked all the time and a pain in the ass) and it worked. Everything stayed cool and the car idles cool now. But it was as loud as hell and dragging all the way to 8,000rpm. I didn't like the idea of a fan loading up that hard all the time.

So I got a bracket laser cut and fit a SPAL 3000cfm fan to the car.

Solid state relay, PWM, etc. Now I can set a full duty cycle via the ECU, and have it start up gently.

Just trying to nail down your problem. What do you mean by staying cool at idle? Why do you want it to be cool? If it overheats in traffic you have a problem but running or idling at normal operating temps is not a problem. A Nismo thermostat will not guarantee that you will idle at 70 deg. It just opens your thermostat earlier.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just trying to nail down your problem. What do you mean by staying cool at idle? Why do you want it to be cool? If it overheats in traffic you have a problem but running or idling at normal operating temps is not a problem. A Nismo thermostat will not guarantee that you will idle at 70 deg. It just opens your thermostat earlier.

I have no idea why, but if my oil temp was up around 90 degrees, when my car was idling it would just idle into oblivious. seen it get to 112 degrees once when I wasn't looking.

As soon a sI put the craig davies fan on with more airflow, it stayed at 86 degrees.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have no idea why, but if my oil temp was up around 90 degrees, when my car was idling it would just idle into oblivious. seen it get to 112 degrees once when I wasn't looking.

As soon a sI put the craig davies fan on with more airflow, it stayed at 86 degrees.

That's certainly getting warm. Is it possible you have a slight leak across the headgasket?

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's certainly getting warm. Is it possible you have a slight leak across the headgasket?

I thought that too, but exhaust gas test was negative, and it isn't using any water at all.

Also, it makes over 400awkw without any issues whatsoever.

Just needed more air hey. The factory fan wasn't blowing much at idle at all

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Just needed more air hey. The factory fan wasn't blowing much at idle at all

Can't be true. Doesn't matter if the engine is a huge power monster. At idle it should be making a small fraction of the heat required to make it boil against the cooling power of the stock fan. For it to all go wrong, SOMETHING must be wrong. Only one of two options. 1) Way more heat being produced than it should be. 2) Some big dent in the cooling power.

1) is quite unlikely. Can you come up with any ideas how an idling engine can make a bunch of heat?

2) happens all the time. Just have to find out why. All the usual suspects, including poorly bled cooling system, worn out pump vanes, blockage in a an important coolant passage or external hose, stupid amounts of other stuff installed in front of the radiator, etc etc.

I don't think it matters that your solution to the problem seems to have been the solution. It may just be a bandaid to the problem if it hasn't actually identified and dealt with the problem.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can't be true. Doesn't matter if the engine is a huge power monster. At idle it should be making a small fraction of the heat required to make it boil against the cooling power of the stock fan. For it to all go wrong, SOMETHING must be wrong. Only one of two options. 1) Way more heat being produced than it should be. 2) Some big dent in the cooling power.

1) is quite unlikely. Can you come up with any ideas how an idling engine can make a bunch of heat?

2) happens all the time. Just have to find out why. All the usual suspects, including poorly bled cooling system, worn out pump vanes, blockage in a an important coolant passage or external hose, stupid amounts of other stuff installed in front of the radiator, etc etc.

I don't think it matters that your solution to the problem seems to have been the solution. It may just be a bandaid to the problem if it hasn't actually identified and dealt with the problem.

I will be investigating it more, but I do have a larger PWR intercooler installed.

I also put a lot of foam around the rad to seal it properly because it was sealed very poorly beforehand too.

I inspected the waterpump with an inspection camera, and it looked okay to me. Here are some pics. If you can see anything wrong please let me know!

post-7271-0-29150400-1466036544_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-59887300-1466036544_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-81300400-1466036544_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-02718600-1466036545_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-24583500-1466036545_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-48686300-1466036545_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-73132300-1466036545_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-94820900-1466036545_thumb.jpg

post-7271-0-57298200-1466036546_thumb.jpg

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Story time, my stocker R31 (RB30E, clutch fan with straight blades) used to get hot sitting in traffic in summer, had to keep the revs around 3,000rpm to keep it from flaming up (would hear the fan moving a lot of air).

Issue was a tiny crack in the factory plastic end tanks + lazy clutch fan hub (hence the revving while standing, changed fan to an R32 one, much quieter). Haven't had an issue since.

OP mentioned he put a locked hub and temps were fine. I'd question this "brand new" hub.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

OP mentioned he put a locked hub and temps were fine. I'd question this "brand new" hub.

Most of the aftermarket viscous hubs for RBs suck balls. I went through several trying to find one that worked after my original one seized. The Davies Craig ones were pretty much the worst. Made the car sound like a Patrol climbing a steep hill, all the time. Was much tighter/poorly calibrated for temperature than it should have been. The other generic brnad replacements were barely any different.

A 2nd hand OEM Nissan one was perfect from the get go. If I had to do it again I'd drop the cash on a new OEM one, and cross my fingers and hope they're not sourcing the same crap ones as the generic replacements!

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What was the temp climbing rate? On a 30deg day with only the ac fan on mine will go from 90 to 110 in about 10 minutes at a stand still. I'd say you might have a problem

Mine wouldn't climb that fast, but it would climb and the highest I have let it go was 110. What was your problem?

  • Like 1
Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Mine wouldn't climb that fast, but it would climb and the highest I have let it go was 110. What was your problem?

That's with no fan, no hub, no thermos etc. only the little ac fan was going. Was a test to see how fast it heated with no fans.

Mine doesn't have a problem since going to thermos, a new rad and thermostat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just put skinny tyres on it.
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • Piggaz
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By Piggaz · Posted

      You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...