Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I recently got a full set of MCA X-R series coilovers supplied and installed on my R32 GTR by a reputable suspension place in Sydney. 

Left rear coilover is knocking on almost every single bump. The mechanics knew there was a knock and checked over every nut and bolt related to the suspension. All seemed fine.

They are currently ordering a new replacement set for the rears as there is possibly something loose within the coilover assembly.

Just wondering has anyone experienced a similar issue with MCA coilovers?

Also any advice to somehow soften the ride slightly. Sydney roads are horrible and the standard setup is a bit too bumpy for my liking.

Cheers

Kase

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465766-mca-coilovers-knocking/
Share on other sites

I recently bought a set of Reds off MCA direct about 1-2 weeks ago (beginning of July), Josh at MCA he advised me they had a batch of shocks which had developed a slow leak over time;

also just a heads up.. we've had a couple of small gas leaks from some shocks made around the time yours were.. It was pretty rare, and I think yours will be ok.. but just letting you know incase you do hear some loud-ish knocks over large bumps/potholes, just let me know and I'll send a replacement for which ever it is straight away.

 

Also as the Reds are dyno tested and individually checked, I asked if that process would catch these leaking shocks.

slow gas leaks not really

i'm talking a drop of a few PSI per day type of thing, and they get gassed with 270ps

 

Regarding the harsh ride, MCA are happy to exchange a set of springs with your set up free of charge within the first few weeks of install, ask their  advice direct as to what would be a step down to increase comfort?  You could also opt to buy a second set and keep your originals for the track and swap between them as you need.

What i did was buy 2 sets of springs, the ones on the coilovers are set-up for street/tarmac driving, and a second set of stiffer springs to suit circuit events should i choose to do them.

Edited by squareznboxez

Incase you didn't get to see my edit,

Regarding the harsh ride, MCA are happy to exchange a set of springs with your set up free of charge within the first few weeks of install, ask their  advice direct as to what would be a step down to increase comfort?  You could also opt to buy a second set and keep your originals for the track and swap between them as you need.

What i did was buy 2 sets of springs, the ones on the coilovers are set-up for street/tarmac driving, and a second set of stiffer springs to suit circuit events should i choose to do them.

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, djr81 said:

You realise that changing out springs is quite an exercise and quite honestly too much of a pain in the arse to do for a track day?

What Spring rates do you have anyway? Hoping they are around the 6 &5kg/mm mark front/rear but I fear otherwise.

Fair call, i did figure for the extra $50/spring it was worth to have as an option.  Below is Josh @ MCAs feedback for my set.

2. Yes I think the extra springs is a very good idea because these springs would be a bit lacking on a circuit when pushing hard.  What tyres would you run on a circuit?  My normal circuit setup would be 15kg front and 11kg rear.

So we'd be going with with a Red Series setup, valving wise I'm thinking a near circuit setup on the front to help with the support of the car, but a bit softer in the rear to help with the ride quality and bump handling.

Spring rates of 12kg front and 5kg rear, along with another pair of 14kg front and 10kg rear assuming you wont be on a tyre like Hankook Z221 or Advan A050 for the track.. if you are, we could go 15/11.


These haven't been installed on the car yet, so i don't have any real feedback to offer, that being said MCA did model specific testing with a R34 GTR (running stock sway bars/bushes) to develop their valving codes and spring rates for that chassis.  That being said for reading i believe there are 2 trains of thought when it comes to spring rates/valving; one being the valving controls the body roll, and other using the springs to control body roll.

MCA BNR34 2.jpg

MCA BNR34.jpg

Edited by squareznboxez
7 hours ago, djr81 said:

You realise that changing out springs is quite an exercise and quite honestly too much of a pain in the arse to do for a track day?

What Spring rates do you have anyway? Hoping they are around the 6 &5kg/mm mark front/rear but I fear otherwise.

This.

Depending on how many track days your doing, how serious you are and whether you do the work yourself it would mean booking the car in to your suspension shop before the track day to get springs swapped and a wheel alignment and then you would need to do it again after said track day.

How many times a year do you want to do this and how much money do you want to spend at the shop?

Of course it also comes down to whether you daily your car, how many kms you do on what sort of roads and how "hardcore" you are.

Now bare in mind I work at a suspension workshop, our owner has 2 MX-5s and 3 sets of coilovers between them, yes we have played with spring rates but does he plan on constantly changing them before/after everytime he goes to the track? Hell no he doesn't.

I'm currently going to keep the MCA X-R series coilovers. Main thing is to address the knocking as this also may affect the overall suspension feel on the car.

The car is booked in for tomorrow to change over the rear coliovers. I'll let you all know how it all goes and if any adjustments were done to the dampers to slightly soften the ride. Might not be required.

On a side note, the car is sitting relatively low but the tyres don't scrub, so I don't plan to change the springs. Scrubbing may occur if I put softer springs in...

 

On 7/13/2016 at 0:49 PM, pureplaya said:

Also any advice to somehow soften the ride slightly. Sydney roads are horrible and the standard setup is a bit too bumpy for my liking.

Adjust the dampers? not rocket science

1 hour ago, Hadouken said:

If I'm not mistaken they allow 2kg either way adjustment on springs.

Yep, would have thought the valving adjustments on the shocks would easily allow for this. There's generally a big difference between full soft and full hard.

Got the car back from V-sport and they did a fantastic job. Both rear coilovers were replaced and dampers adjusted. The car feels great!!!!

Current setup is:

MCA X-R series coilovers

Front damper - 4 clicks,   Rear damper - 6 clicks

Front Springs - 180mm 10kg,   Rear Springs - 220mm 4.5kg

Ride height (centre of wheel to guard) - 345mm both front and rear

20160715_133707.jpg

On Friday, 15 July 2016 at 0:49 PM, pureplaya said:

Got the car back from V-sport and they did a fantastic job. Both rear coilovers were replaced and dampers adjusted. The car feels great!!!!

Current setup is:

MCA X-R series coilovers

Front damper - 4 clicks,   Rear damper - 6 clicks

Front Springs - 180mm 10kg,   Rear Springs - 220mm 4.5kg

Ride height (centre of wheel to guard) - 345mm both front and rear

20160715_133707.jpg

Wow, they put a 7" spring in the front?  I couldn't work out why they used such a hard spring but I guess if you only have a 180mm to play with you are going to need a big number.

Hmm, on looking up an Eibach cattle dog the 7" 10kg 2.5" od spring has a travel of 100mm which leaves about 50mm once the car is on it.  So better than I thought and probably not much different to a lot of setups.

Still 10kg/mm & 4.5kg/mm is a big gap when you have a car that understeers and has four wheel drive.

Edited by djr81

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...