Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So installed xspurt 1000cc top feeds with top feed rail from scotty, Hypergear ss2, int gated, Haltech platinum pro, return flow cooler

Now when I had it tuned it made 281rwkw @17psi but full boost was somewhere at 5400 when I mentioned that it should on sooner the tuner had said there was something odd with the VCT when he was trying to set it, he thought it could have been a timing issue, so I had him check that(it was all fine) he then later contacted me and said it was the wastegate not set correctly, set it and then sorted the mid range, boost at 4400.

Now everything I've seen about the ss2 can have full boost at around 3800rpm, so it now has me wondering if there could actually be an issue with the VCT itself.(if VCT can help boost come on)

So have been searching on here about VCT and looks possible that my VCT is stuck as its giving me good top end but possibly poor low....

I disconnected the VCT and drove it and it feels the same, but I am unsure if it feels the same because it was faulty before hand and has been tuned around it...

The plug itself needs replacing as it doesn't clip on, I used a multimeter at the plug, car on, positive on one pin and neg on chassis and then other pin and chassis and no change at multimeter.  Did it hot and cold if that makes a diff.  Have I done it right? I assumed the positive wire was constantly on and neg switches on/off , so at least one of the pins would be giving me voltage.

I have to take the car back at some point to sort something else out but just want to see if there is anything I can do to ensure its working or not.

 

20160712_105552.jpg

Edited by MatthewT85
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465813-rb25-possible-vct-issue/
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

is the Halaltech set correctly?

put a multimeter on and rev the car, it should register a voltage change at a specific rpm point (as per your tuner's settng)

ill have to check if its set correctly. it should activate just off idle and deactivate around 5k? correct?

when i rev the car it has to be in gear? another thread i read said it didnt activate without it in gear or something

4 hours ago, hypergear said:

Check and make sure the internal gate is 3mms preloaded. With active vct, you should hear a click on throttle movement

yeah thanks the gate is set to roughly 3mm

8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Take the VCT out and wire it directly to see if the actual solenoid works first.

when you say take it out, do you mean take the vct solenoid out of the head and wire it directly to a battery? Also does it matter which pin is pos and which is neg?

3 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

ill have to check if its set correctly. it should activate just off idle and deactivate around 5k? correct?

when i rev the car it has to be in gear? another thread i read said it didnt activate without it in gear or something

yeah thanks the gate is set to roughly 3mm

when you say take it out, do you mean take the vct solenoid out of the head and wire it directly to a battery? Also does it matter which pin is pos and which is neg?

Yes. No it doesn't matter which way round.

  • 1 month later...

So I've tested the solenoid and it's clicking. Next thing I'm gonna do is cut and solder a new plug on as it isn't staying attached and might be the issue.

Stupid question though. As I have to solder extra wire on so it still reaches the plug I went to buy some.
The wire had 10 amps on it. Other option was 25 amps. Is the 10 amp wire ok to use?

are the set points set correctly on the Haltech? because there's a vac and +ve pressure values that needs to be set.. conenct up the Haltech and press F4, then look for the VCT tab.. I recall it being on the OUTPUT menu, grab a screen shot.

are the set points set correctly on the Haltech? because there's a vac and +ve pressure values that needs to be set.. conenct up the Haltech and press F4, then look for the VCT tab.. I recall it being on the OUTPUT menu, grab a screen shot.


Yeah it wasn't set up as it looks like it wasn't working when I dropped off my car.
So I'm gonna attach a new plug and hopefully that's the issue.
  • 4 weeks later...

7c53fe5b7ddd609def9a1e80dc1244ab.jpg
So this is what it's at atm. What I'm trying to do atm is just work out it it's the settings that's been missed. Or whether I have an issue with the wiring.
I just want to make sure it works so it can be.put on the dunno to be set correctly

thanks, 

will it be ok to drive around with the altered settings?

also if i wanted to test the voltage at the plug after changing the settings, would i just have the car idling at operating temp and use a multimeter, or do i have to have someone put it in gear and clutch in?

I have just looked at an old thread of yours johnny and someone suggested having the car at idle and applying direct power to the solenoid using a battery or something to see if the idle changes, could this be a good test to try before playing with the haltech settings?

your Haltech settings aren't ideal anyway

If you want to test, I suggest this..

set the TPS to 5%, operating temp from 50c, set point at 1000rpm on both vac and boost then hold the revs about 2k and get someone to pull off the plug see if there's a change on engine note.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...