Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm starting this post to see what is working for everyone.

My new engine is a 3025 neo built engine and I want to maximize its performance. 

Old system is a 3inch turbo back 100 cel cat straight through muffler.

Was thinking about doing a 4inch dump pipe to 3 inch from dump back.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466345-exhaust-system-setups/
Share on other sites

You don't need anything crazy if you venting gate to atmo and run no cat..

If you not..good luck with that .., just take of exhaust on dyno before you piss fart around remaking stuff

400 should be a walk in the park for a 3 inch exhaust..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

The smart* approach (fully fully custom) is to route the wastegate pipe back in behind the cat.  Face it, the gate is not open very much of the time on the street, therefore the vast majority of the time all the gas is going through the cat.  Then when you really need the gate to flow lots of gas, you're not also requiring the cat to flow lots of gas.  Win.  Was it dose pipe Johnny who's done basically this recently?

 

*Only smart until you actually do get some sort of EPA/police attention, in which case it's not actually legal.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The smart* approach (fully fully custom) is to route the wastegate pipe back in behind the cat.  Face it, the gate is not open very much of the time on the street, therefore the vast majority of the time all the gas is going through the cat.  Then when you really need the gate to flow lots of gas, you're not also requiring the cat to flow lots of gas.  Win.  Was it dose pipe Johnny who's done basically this recently?

 

*Only smart until you actually do get some sort of EPA/police attention, in which case it's not actually legal.

Yes Johnny did this and ive copied plus merged it later for good measure ?

3 hours ago, lcxu105 said:

So a 3 1/2"dump 700mm lone back to a straight through 3"with 100 cel cat with 50mm wastegate merged back in the 3" pipe should be able to handle 420 to 450rwkw?

i had a 3.5 inch dump, then a 3 inch with a slight offset lukey and a resonator on my r31. It ran 141mph through the mufflers on 25psi with a auto

it was quiet exhaust but with a vented gate 

My mate had same mufflers in his vl turbo( manual)  as he copied with a 3582 turbo on upper 27psi, but with a 3 inch dump..he ran 138mph (you work the power out out) on a 3582 1.06 turbo , he dropped the exhaust  at dump and it made 10rwkw difference...Had a vented gate

No meows..

 

It really really comes down to vented gate..if you don't vent it..good luck. You need a f**koff big exhaust. Just like a Gtr with the twins replaced with upgrades...

or perhaps merge it a long way back. But thats a p.i.t.a

honestly you just need to test it, as different mufflers and cats pose different restrictions..even in same sizing..

cheers

darren

 

  • Like 1

Interested to see what difference venting the gate to atmosphere would make with my set up. Currently running a 4" dump to the bellhousing and then 3" from there through a single round muffler after the diff. Single cam RB30 with a powerglide. Head is stock besides slightly oversize valves and a small 218 @ .050 wade cam. Making 396rwkw with a 1.06 gtx35 on 30psi. Basically stopped making decent gains in power with more boost and inlet temps rising quite fast. The gate plumbs back in maybe halfway down the dump pipe. Would it be much more efficient going to atmosphere as I presume a fair amount exhaust flow would be through the turbo at that boost level?

I didn't have a chance to dump the exhaust last time on the dyno to see if any gains were to be made but I guess the stock ports in the head would be holding things back a little also?

44 minutes ago, PSI086 said:

Interested to see what difference venting the gate to atmosphere would make with my set up. Currently running a 4" dump to the bellhousing and then 3" from there through a single round muffler after the diff. Single cam RB30 with a powerglide. Head is stock besides slightly oversize valves and a small 218 @ .050 wade cam. Making 396rwkw with a 1.06 gtx35 on 30psi. Basically stopped making decent gains in power with more boost and inlet temps rising quite fast. The gate plumbs back in maybe halfway down the dump pipe. Would it be much more efficient going to atmosphere as I presume a fair amount exhaust flow would be through the turbo at that boost level?

I didn't have a chance to dump the exhaust last time on the dyno to see if any gains were to be made but I guess the stock ports in the head would be holding things back a little also?

What fuel are you running? 30psi i would expect to see more hp than that 

On 8/24/2016 at 7:10 PM, PSI086 said:

Interested to see what difference venting the gate to atmosphere would make with my set up. Currently running a 4" dump to the bellhousing and then 3" from there through a single round muffler after the diff. Single cam RB30 with a powerglide. Head is stock besides slightly oversize valves and a small 218 @ .050 wade cam. Making 396rwkw with a 1.06 gtx35 on 30psi. Basically stopped making decent gains in power with more boost and inlet temps rising quite fast. The gate plumbs back in maybe halfway down the dump pipe. Would it be much more efficient going to atmosphere as I presume a fair amount exhaust flow would be through the turbo at that boost level?

I didn't have a chance to dump the exhaust last time on the dyno to see if any gains were to be made but I guess the stock ports in the head would be holding things back a little also?

I wrote a big post and it didnt work. Cbf again

My mate morgz on ct ran 3 inch dump/exhaust plumbed back

With a 3582 with billet 67mm  comp 1.06

Went 10.20@140 -30psi-auto-450rwkw..made no more power

He unplumbed gate and it went straight to 40psi and maxed fuel system out in the midrange where peak torque is. Had to plumb it back..lol

So maybe worth a look

Cheers

Darren

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...