Jump to content
SAU Community

Servicing your R33?

trader33

By trader33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

trader33 Rookie

trader33

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone!

I'm new to this forum, i am finding these forums to be very educational and time consuming during work hours :jump:

Just wonder if someone can list what needs to done on a regular say 10,000km service on a R33 Gts-t?

And also can someone recommend somewhere to get my car serviced in Canberra?

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46650-servicing-your-r33/
Share on other sites
Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

Hi Trader33, welcome.

To service your car, you'll want to:

- Change the motor oil and oil filter... every 5,000kms.

- Change your spark plugs... coppers, every 10k kms, iridiums, much longer. :)

- Change your coolant fluid... erm... umm... I've changed mine twice for the 30k kms I've had my 33, so... every 10k kms? :D

- Change your fuel filter. I get the mechanic to do this whenever I'm getting something else done... or you could do it yourself if you want, @ $15 for the filter... I'd do it at 10k km mark.

Anyone want to add anything on? There's guides here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35442

heartbrkr Community Regular

heartbrkr

Posted
Posted
Hi Trader33, welcome.

To service your car, you'll want to:

- Change the motor oil and oil filter... every 5,000kms.  

- Change your spark plugs... coppers, every 10k kms, iridiums, much longer. :)

- Change your coolant fluid... erm... umm... I've changed mine twice for the 30k kms I've had my 33, so... every 10k kms? :rofl:

- Change your fuel filter. I get the mechanic to do this whenever I'm getting something else done... or you could do it yourself if you want, @ $15 for the filter... I'd do it at 10k km mark.

Anyone want to add anything on? There's guides here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35442

isnt the fuel filter every 100,000km? i changed mine, but that was related to a stalling issue.

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted
trader33 - if you live in Canberra then go to All Make Automotive in Garran, beside the Mobil servo or TEZ automotive in Mawson.  Highly recommend them.

I'd also recommend the Mobil servo at Garran - see the thread in the ACT section about servicing :)

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted
isnt the fuel filter every 100,000km? i changed mine, but that was related to a stalling issue.

No, you're thinking of the timing belt. :)

I honestly don't know what the 'correct' period for the fuel filter is, but considering I put (on average) 300-400 liters of fuel (that came from dirty underground tanks) per month into the engine (via a dirty fuel tank from the car), and they're so dirt cheap (pun intended) to buy, it doesn't hurt to change them regularly. Besides, a new filter will eliminate another suspect in tracking down problems.

  • 1 month later...
Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

What Fanny said. :mad:

I've never actually changed a fuel filter myself (don't like getting fuel on me hands)... but you should be able to get a code off the old filter. You don't *really* need 'CODE XYZ' filter, since it's not actually fitting onto anything mechanical like an oil filter fitting onto the side of a block. You just need one that will fit in the hoses snuggly.

I get mine changed by the mechanic and it costs like $12 in 'parts'.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted
its easy to get one hose off but a pain in the ass to get the other one off.  after hlf an hr of blisters and cursing i just cut the damn thing!!  quite an easy job to do though and i did notice the car to be alot smoother after it.

:werd:

both hoses were a little stubborn on the weekend, patience.....lots of patience (not a stanley knife) got mine off.

placebo or not?!?! seems to be running better.

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

Shouldn't be too placebic... you're replacing something that was restricting the fuel flow (when it's very dirty)... it should start easier, be smoother, blah blah blah.

Did you have to seal off the hose from the tank, or did you just let it drain out?

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

i doubt it's placebic (is that a new word??!! nice!) too, genuinely feels better but i am a sceptic at heart.

i didn't seal off the hose, there was a small amount of return from downstream, upstream was no problem. if it wasn't for the goddam @#>*#@ difficult hose removal it would have been reasonably neat. i contemplated plugging the lines after i pulled the filter off but any spillage was well and truly done by then.

Husky33 Veteran

Husky33

Posted
Posted

best thing to do when changin the fule filter is to remove the fuse for the fuel pumo....then crank the car. IT'll stall once it's used all the fuel in the lines...then put the fuse back in and away u go...no fuel in the lines :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...